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  #1871  
Old 12-15-2010, 01:02 AM
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That's an interesting point and I didn't think of it. I did measure it with both shocks bottomed. If there is one thing I've learned building this car, it's to leave yourself more room than you think! I really hope the extra .5" of travel and the new spring rate keep it from bottoming out under accel!
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  #1872  
Old 12-20-2010, 03:35 AM
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I really like how you did your breather set up and I would like to do some thing like this to my Dad's car. What type of hose did you use and what size? Is it -12?

Thanks,
Jon
  #1873  
Old 12-20-2010, 07:45 AM
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Hey Todd,

The accusump has me curious, do you have to manually open the valve with the yellow handle before every start up and close it before you shut the engine off every time you shut it down?

With the engine off if you open the valve do you know how long it will take for all the oil in the accumulator to discharge?

Do you ever pre charge with air through the shrader valve or is that only if you forget to close the valve before shut down?

Thanks Rich
  #1874  
Old 12-20-2010, 10:06 AM
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Todd,

FYI make sure you inspect your shocks well. I bottomed out my varishocks and they were damaged. Look closely at the top of shock closer nut, where the shaft enters the shock. A shock that has bottomed out can leak and or have damaged internals. Check the DSE shocks for any fatigue due to coil bind, as most likely the shock body threads and upper spring adapter took a high load.

Matt
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Project: " Chain Reaction "

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1969 RS Camaro, L92 T56, Chassisworks sub, Quadra-Link, Bear, Ford 9".
  #1875  
Old 12-20-2010, 10:29 AM
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Hey Todd, whose core support bars are you using?

Need to find a set to replace my stockers that like to leak stuff out of them:


Think its some hot tank fluid that got inside them and likes to leak out on hot days. Since I hot tanked them before I had em painted (done it like 2-3 times now).
  #1876  
Old 12-20-2010, 11:28 AM
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John, I used -12 and the low profile fitting on the valve cover is an Earls piece. The hose and 45 is a jegs brand. Don't mix brands in pressure applications. Make sure the valve cover fittings are shrouded and not at the front or back of the cover. I've seen to many guys make that mistake. Where is your oil under accel and braking? This set up has worked fantastic.

Rich, I leave the valve off on the street. It's always charged with 3 qts of oil and 6 psi on the dry side of the piston. It takes around 5 seconds to discharge all the oil. I will from time to time mix up the oil to remove the moisture. I usually open the valve slowly with the engine running. I've got a road race pan on the engine so it's just insurance on the race track. It's 3 extra qts of cooling capacity as well.

Matt, I looked at them and they seem OK. I'll double check them. The varishocks had mild seapage. My LF DSE had seapage while the RF is dry. 5k and a dozen races. Seems pretty par for the course. Looking forward to some reasonable spring rates!

Ed, these are the black anodized twist machine braces. Very happy with them from fitment to build quality.
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Last edited by Vegas69; 12-20-2010 at 11:35 AM.
  #1877  
Old 12-20-2010, 11:35 AM
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Cool, thanks for the info Todd.

Thanks,
Jon
  #1878  
Old 12-20-2010, 12:55 PM
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Cool, thanks for the info Todd.

Thanks,
Jon
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  #1879  
Old 12-20-2010, 01:28 PM
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Todd
I also have a question about your valve cover/breather system. I also have fabricated valve covers with no holes in them, how do you fill the oil? And what brand breather.catch can are you using?
Thanks
Mike
  #1880  
Old 12-20-2010, 03:01 PM
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Mike, I just unscrew one of the AN fittings and I have a long funnel that fits in the opening perfectly. They are Moroso tanks.
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