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  #11  
Old 04-03-2009, 11:02 AM
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MarkM66 MarkM66 is offline
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You should do some more research. Welders are rated as to what they can and can't weld.
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  #12  
Old 04-05-2009, 04:39 PM
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The Miller 140 Autoset has a welding range of 24 gauge on the thin side and 3/16" MAXIMUM for a SINGLE pass... and that's MILD STEEL

This will handle almost everything a hot rodder will be doing.

I prefer a lot more capacity - because I've found that I use my stuff to build shop tools and fix other stuff... Once you can weld - and have the equipment - there's no reason to limit yourself.
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  #13  
Old 05-19-2009, 04:51 PM
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I bought the Hobart Handler (many Miller components like the gun) and I'm very impressed so far...it's the 140 and it'll handle 1/4"
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  #14  
Old 05-19-2009, 05:42 PM
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Great! Pull that trigger and weld away!!

A couple of un-asked for tips.... Snip the end of the wire at each tack or each start - snip it at an angle - this small 'point' helps start the weld... Yes it uses some wire -- but a good weld is more important than a few inches (total) of wire....

And -- if you're like me - I can't use the recommended settings for the helmets -- if I do - I can't see a damn thing -- so I always start on a hunk of scrap and get my helmet set so I can see what the hell I'm doing first!
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  #15  
Old 05-26-2009, 01:20 PM
cobrajay cobrajay is offline
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I use the Lincoln Pro-MIG 140. Does 24 to 10 gauge. It is the 120 model but it suits my needs perfectly for all types of sheet metal. It is capable of MIG and that is how mine is setup. Steer clear of Flux-core... that crap doesn't work well on sheetmetal AT ALL.

One can be had brand new for $520.
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  #16  
Old 06-05-2009, 02:23 PM
av8or32 av8or32 is offline
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Great advice on the flux core. Also, there is a difference between wire brands. Lincoln wire seems to run better in my Hobart than Hobart brand wire as weird as that sounds.
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  #17  
Old 06-05-2009, 03:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by av8or32 View Post
Great advice on the flux core. Also, there is a difference between wire brands. Lincoln wire seems to run better in my Hobart than Hobart brand wire as weird as that sounds.
That's more likely a "roller tension" issue than the actual brand of wire...
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  #18  
Old 06-08-2009, 08:53 AM
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Here is a rookie question. What is wrong with flux core? I have no experience in welding at all so I do not know the difference between flux core and solid wire.
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  #19  
Old 06-08-2009, 09:57 AM
Rhino Rhino is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 65bomber View Post
Here is a rookie question. What is wrong with flux core? I have no experience in welding at all so I do not know the difference between flux core and solid wire.
Solid core wire requires the use of a shielding gas which is external to the filler material. The flux core wire burns the flux creating the shielding gas cloud. For this to happen the gas has to travel through the molten puddle causing a less attractive, and potentially more porous, weld. For anything that's going to be cosmetic (such as body panels) you'll want to use the gas. You can get by without using it, but it will make things much easier.
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  #20  
Old 06-09-2009, 08:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rhino View Post
Solid core wire requires the use of a shielding gas which is external to the filler material. The flux core wire burns the flux creating the shielding gas cloud. For this to happen the gas has to travel through the molten puddle causing a less attractive, and potentially more porous, weld. For anything that's going to be cosmetic (such as body panels) you'll want to use the gas. You can get by without using it, but it will make things much easier.
Basically -- FLUX CORE wire is for farmers in the field - not nice cars....

ROFLMAO... sorry - but it's true.
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