Exposed metal prep advice

[T-Type]

Originally Posted by elitecustombody

picklex 20 is great when you want to leave bare metal without any primers for extended periods of time,if you're doing alot of metal work and it takes months to finish, you won't have to grind or remove primer to weld, picklex also makes welds cleaner.This is not a primer.

here is a link to their site, http://www.picklex20.com/

another question for you. so would primer go over top of the picklex once ready for that stage or does this stuff need to be removed prior to priming and painting?

thanks for the link as well, going there now.

[elitecustombody]

Yes, just scuff the surface with 180 or 120,no need to remove it completely, wipe with prep-solv and shoot primer

[GregWeld]

What many folks don't understand about "primer" and or "bondo" is that both are hygroscopic - in other words - they absorb moisture over time. So lots of "home" guys will do bodywork and then 'prime' the work.... and then 3 years later seal it and paint it.... or they "think" they are doing good by priming bare metal -- and it sits for a long time in humid and unheated shop... and that bare metal under the 'primer' (filler primer) can be rusting up.

Then they take it out in the sun.... and wonder what the hell happened... and blame the painter.

It really pays to explain what you're doing when talking about your project to a "pro" --- so they can guide you to the RIGHT products for YOUR application. Know ahead of time what paint you plan to use - at least as far as type and brand (i.e., base/clear or single stage or water base etc) and make that known as well.

[elitecustombody]

Greg,I agree with you for the most part, but if the metal is clean and sealed with epoxy primer, it should not rust if it was shot right away in dry and clean environment . Epoxy primer is the only primer that blocks moisture, that's why anyone with common sense will epoxy the metal and do their skim filler work over that, otherwise if filler is applied over bare steel,it will attract moisture and absorb it like sponge,

I've had to fix more than few cars that looked decent,but upon removal of filler and primer, I discovered rust, I've even had some cars with few repaints and no bodywork and yet they had rust underneath factory paint/primer, so I would never trust factory 40+ year old paint.

[GregWeld]

Stefan -

That's why when I said "primer" --- I said filler primer (or similar) not EXPOXY primer...

For the most part - the average guy thinks that it's "painted" when it's in just ordinary primer (there's many names and kinds).

No wonder I have two plastic cars!


EEEEEEEEEEEEEHHHHHHHHHHHHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA

[elitecustombody]

Greg, we're on same page, buddy

[mrr1999]

Can you use epoxy primer on bare metal or do you have to lay down etching primer first? Or does epoxy primer etch? I honestly have no idea.

Thanks

[DRJDVM's '69]

Most epoxies are DTM (direct to metal) and many of them specifically state NOT to use any form of etch primer etc under them.....ALWAYS read the spec sheet for the product you use... the sheets are availbale online as well as most of your paint supply places have them.

[mrr1999]

Great, thanks Ned. I'll look into that this week.

[Blake Foster]

Heres A ? what do you guys do to promote the adheasion of the filler to the Epoxy? i know there are 2 trains of thinking one being that the filler will adhear better to bare metal than to the Epoxy, and then there is the issue of the filler attracting moisture. but if the filler is applied to bare metal and then epoxied over?? where is the moisture going to come from?
my thought would be this in the really obvious areas that need filler "sand/grind" with 40 grit" epoxy then fill then re epoxy the bare metal areas, then filler primer, and we have used the Evercoat slick sand for this, great product NO SHRINKAGE and affordable, basically spray filler, then a final primer and paint.

lets debate