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  #11  
Old 03-16-2013, 06:42 PM
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JB64CHEVELLE JB64CHEVELLE is offline
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Some pics of my hack job! LoL
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  #12  
Old 03-16-2013, 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by JB64CHEVELLE View Post
Hi Vince and Aaron, I will post up some pics for you on this. I had to notch the frame for oil pan clearance with the Mast pan. You will also need to check tie rod to oil pan clearance. I Left just enough room from cylinder to firewall for my coil packs. If your not putting the coil packs on the back of the head and making your own mounts you probably can move the motor back far enough to clear the crossmember. You will also need to modify the firewall to have access to the bellhousing bolts. I have a T56 and ended up cutting the complete trans tunnel out and made a raised one front to back . This was so I could have a low stance, driveshaft clearance with the T56. Hope this makes sense.
Sounds exactly like what I did. I'm running relocated coils as well. I also have a T56 and raised my tunnel and clearanced the first floor pan brace for yoke clearance. I am running a 4" aluminum drive shaft and a 9" ford. Low stance is a must
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  #13  
Old 03-16-2013, 09:34 PM
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Aaron, I have to say your forgelines are BAD $SS. Do you think you can go wider than the 295 in the back? I got the ABC kit and was hoping to do at least a 315. I have 345s but I think thats going to require moving the lower trailing arm points.
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Old 03-18-2013, 05:33 PM
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65_LS1_T56 65_LS1_T56 is offline
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Originally Posted by JB64CHEVELLE View Post
Aaron, I have to say your forgelines are BAD $SS. Do you think you can go wider than the 295 in the back? I got the ABC kit and was hoping to do at least a 315. I have 345s but I think thats going to require moving the lower trailing arm points.
Not to hi-jack, but maybe some useful info for the OP...
On my car, 295's, maybe 305s would fit if available in 18". I notched my frame before the ABC frame kits were available and when I did it, I only went 1.5" per side instead of 2". My frame is actually the limiting factor on the inboard side. With the tubs 2" wider and the frame, you should be able to get a 315 in there. 335/345's IMO would require moving the whole frame/trailing arms inboard on a 64-65 (or fenders out ie widebody). What alot of guys don't realize even thought the frames are interchangeable from 64-67, the 66-67 quarter lip-to-quarter lip is 2.5 - 3" wider (1.5"/side) than the early cars. Hence, 295's will fit in a non-tubbed 66-67.

And TY on the Forgelines, I'm very happy with them. PM me if you need any more info.
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  #15  
Old 03-19-2013, 10:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JB64CHEVELLE View Post
Aaron, I have to say your forgelines are BAD $SS. Do you think you can go wider than the 295 in the back? I got the ABC kit and was hoping to do at least a 315. I have 345s but I think thats going to require moving the lower trailing arm points.
Nice work, I don't think we will have to go that route. We are doing custom frame stands to move the engine back as far as we can go.


Say, do you have a build thread somewhere? love to see the progress.
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  #16  
Old 03-21-2013, 12:57 PM
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No build thread yet, I guess I should post one up.
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  #17  
Old 06-23-2013, 02:02 PM
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I'm watching both of your build threads as I'm researching this for my '65.

Keep up the good work !
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