Take Two

[OZ Duster]

The car has been sorted, roadworthy passed and now registered.



New shifter is a big improvement on the stumpy Hurst Indy, now I can select first and second a lot easier.



Engine cleaned and painted






One issue is the lack of charging to the battery. After forty minutes watching a "Qualified" auto electrician flick through old Delco folders trying to match a picture to work out what he was looking at, I called it quits and came home to consult the font of knowledge on here (must admit I did some you tube diagnostics... )

here is a picture of how it has been wired up (I'm assuming recently by the tape and fittings)



On the positive /Bat post there is wire returning to the battery and the brown wire is putting out 12 volts (engine running and disconnected from the alternator, and I have continuity to the regulator.

The battery is at 12.6 volts however, there is no increase in voltage when the engine is running and revs increased.

Have I missed something simple or am I way off the mark. I have seen reference to eliminating the regulator via some creative wiring. Should I just bite the bullet and spend another couple of Hundred $ on a sparky?

Cheers

[trevor572]

I had the same problem with my 68, the altenator was originally on the drivers side on the 68s and probably the 67s also, the 69s were on the passenger side and used the brackets like you have. The fault in mine was where the wiring had been extendeď to reach the other side of the car. It's probably in front of the radiator support panel. Just check the continuity of those 3 wires. As I said that's where I found my problem to be, it's an easy fix if that did happen to be the problem. Looking Good too Mate.�� Cheers
Sorry I just reread your post and you said you had continuity to the regulator. Must be something else.

[WSSix]

Congrats on getting the car legally on the road. Enjoy driving it this summer!

[cjsgarage]

The brown wire goes to the alternator light if you have one. So if that brown wire is from the regulator it's not supposed to be there. And see below for diagnostics, but.. just in case..

Does your new dash have a charge indicator light? If it's LED, or not hooked up, it may be causing your problem.

[cjsgarage]

I couldn't sleep knowing I wasn't sure. I looked it up. The brown wire is indeed the wire that goes to the alternator light, but it comes from the regulator. The two wires coming from your alternator (as best I can make it out) are R and F. R is for relay, but it's basically a "sense" wire. It checks for voltage drop, so it knows how high to kick up alternator voltage. F is for field. It's basically the control for voltage.

F goes to terminal #1 on your regulator.
R goes to terminal #2 on your regulator.

Double check those bad boys with a Ohm meter right quick. Sould be under 5 ohms end to end, disconnected from their connectors.

Terminal #3 on your regulator should go to battery power.
Terminal #4 on your regulator should be the brown wire that goes to your gauge.

Again, check those with an ohm meter. It might not be so easy to check the brown wire to the back of the gauge cluster.. so maybe you'll get lucky and find the problem in the first three wires. Or a regulator will fix it.


I always replace regulators and alternators together, too. Seems like I can't keep them from coming back unless I replace both.

[cjsgarage]

oh yeah. To test your alternator, jump the blue wire to the battery post with the engine running. Your alternator should output as high a voltage as it can.

I have more tests to check the wiring and regulator if you get that far and haven't narrowed it down yet.