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  #11  
Old 10-15-2006, 08:08 PM
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3kidsnotime 3kidsnotime is offline
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Depending on what type of pressure plate will also have a bearing a three finger or a diaphragm use diffrent release bearing one long and one short.
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  #12  
Old 10-15-2006, 08:35 PM
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I would check the adjustment on the clutch arm may not be long enough or try opening the bleeder valve and submerging it in fluid and pump pedal just had the same problem with my freinds 32 ford with same set up arm was not traveling far enough 1/2 inch off on the adjustment loose over 2inches of clutch travel
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  #13  
Old 10-15-2006, 09:50 PM
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3kidsnotime,

I just came in from doing what you asked. I backed the bolts out so that there was no pressure. The tranny came back only enought for me to just slip my fingernail in between the trans case and the alum. ring.

I then dropped it done off jacks and in 1st with the clutch depressed I hit the starter and it surged forward and continued to when the engine hit. I killed the engine and tightend all bolts back up. Does this confirm the problem is not a input bind issue? Do you have any other ideas for me to look at? I appreciate the ideas.


I looked in the bell "window" and the slave/TOB is right against the fingers of the pressure plate as it sits with the clutch depressed. Is this correct, or should it be backed off to some degree?

"Edit"

I just got a link on a Mcleod clutch install in an LS1/T56. The install shows shims used to allow for the correct TOB travel to disengage the clutch. Neither my clutch nor my pressure plate came with any shims so I don't know if they were left out or must be bought separate. In any case, I may have to pull everthing out and change the shim thickness.

Here is the link to the install showing the shims:

http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...ch_install.htm

Kerry

Last edited by analyte; 10-15-2006 at 10:09 PM.
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  #14  
Old 10-16-2006, 03:27 PM
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You dont have a bind issue so next make sure you have all the air from the system if that is no cure you will need to shim it, Good Luck and keep us posted
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  #15  
Old 10-16-2006, 11:26 PM
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First off,

I called Mcleod and they wanted to sell me their master, but said I could also shim it when I asked. I then called Tyler after ATS opened and he stated the same thing since I wasn't getting enough travel to disengage the clutch. So....to recap....

After installing a rebuilt T56, new master, new slave, and new clutch my 66 Chevelle with an external 454 it would creep in gear with the clutch in and I couldn't get it in any gear while running. The hydraulics were bench bled by ATS and then I spent a couple hours tonight bleeding the system on the car with my mityvac. I'm confident no air is in the system as I got none even with all my effort. None of the bleeding helped my problem. I didn't expect any air and got none so ATS did a heck of a job getting it right the first time!

Therefore, I pulled the T56 tonight based on Tylers direction and measured the bell to P/P fingers distance and the bell to slave distance. These are the results:

bell to P/P fingers: 2 2/16 inches

bell to top of slave extended: 2 6/16 inches

When installed the slave is compressed 4/16 (if I understand correctly) and from the previous install, 4/16 is not enough travel to disengage the clutch. I will be calling Tyler back tomorrow to give him the data so we may determine the shim size required. Anyone want to guess what size shim I will need to get the correct travel? How much travel does the p/p fingers need?

Thanks for all the help so far. I will keep all updated for future reference!


Kerry
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  #16  
Old 10-17-2006, 05:51 AM
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did you have this clutch set up in the car originaly if not did you readjust your clucth pedal to clutch master rod it is either 6-1or 7-1 ratio if that rod is to short by only an half inch you loose six to seven times that in pedal travel I realy think this is your problem like I said before I just had the same problem that fixed it Ron
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  #17  
Old 10-17-2006, 07:27 AM
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I converted over from a TH400 to the T56 so I am new to all the hydraulics and clutches.

I adjusted the rod for all it was worth, which took out the clutch stop, and it didn't make a difference. The travel is still limited my the end of the master cylinder. So the entire 15/16 of travel within the master cylinder is being consumed, I am sure of that.


Kerry
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  #18  
Old 10-17-2006, 03:25 PM
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your telling me that the clucth master only hase 15/16 of travel that doesn't make sence I'm going to check mine i'll get back to you Ron
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  #19  
Old 10-17-2006, 03:41 PM
Teetoe_Jones Teetoe_Jones is offline
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Factory hydraulics only have a max pushrod travel of 15/16" before it bottoms out, and cracks the master.
We also do not bleed the hydraulics here, they come pre-bled from GM, all we do is mod the pushrod length, so I know there is zero air in the hydraulics.
I'm sure you just need a small shim to take up that last bit of travel to fully release the clutch.

Tyler
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  #20  
Old 10-17-2006, 08:19 PM
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Tyler is right! I checked as mentioned in this thread before and there was no air in the hydraulics.

After talking to ATS today, I spoke with the metal fab guy at work and he is making me a shim to install behind the slave. I measured out the dimensions of the slave so it will fit nice and clean behind it. After he is done with it, I will send it through the PO4/ecoat system to protect it from rust and in it will go.

Tyler and Shane at ATS has been great throughout this whole ordeal. I couldn't have pulled it off without their products and support. I'm glad it's almost finished, but I couldn't even imagine doing this type of install without their help!


Kerry
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