T56 Install - Moves with clutch in - Lateral-g Forums

analyte · #1 10-15-2006, 12:51 PM

I finished up my T56 install yesterday and was going to take her on a trial run today. I'm using a LS1 T56 with a Mcleod 8710-10 SFI bell, clutch, and PP along with ATS OEM modified hydraulics.

The problems (probably related):

- I can't get it in gear with the car started
- If I kill the engine the tranny slides in gear easily, but when started the car creeps in first or reverse with the clutch pushed in

I can hear the throwout bearing pushing the PP fingers with the engine off and pushing the clutch so I know their is movement. I was in contact with Tyler throughout the ordeal so I know everything went in correctly and smoothly. I was told no adjustment shims were needed for anything, just slide the tranny in through the clutch/pp and hook up the hydraulics.

This is my first clutch install, but not first manual. I'm not sure what could be wrong. I'm going to grind the welds off my clutch stop and remove it in case I have it stopping it just before 15/16 inch.

Any other ideas if it's not the clutch stop?

Thanks,
Kerry

analyte · #2 10-15-2006, 02:09 PM

okay, I pulled the clutch stop out of the equation and it still wants to creep in gear with the clutch all the way in. It also will not go into gear with the engine running.

It seems I may be pulling the T56 to fix this. Any ideas on whay I'm looking for? I spent 3 days putting it in slowing checking everything twice so I'm not sure what I will be looking for that could be the problem.

Kerry

Van B · #3 10-15-2006, 04:08 PM

I'll be watching this thread, because I am having the same problem plus a few more. I didn't feel like I was getting all of the air out of the system, so I ordered a new master from Tyler.

At one point, after I bled it, it would do exactly the same thing you describe.

analyte · #4 10-15-2006, 04:21 PM

There doesn't appear to be many lurking here tonight so I will call Tyler tomorrow and report back.

I put a post on LS1tech.com and it appears this is a common symptom of a clutch with air in it. I think Tyler bench bleeds everything before he sends it out, so I don't understand how air got in it.

Most likely, I will be going to get a Mityvac to bleed the system since I am by myself and don't have a second person around to work the clutch for me.

Kerry

**camcojb** · #5 10-15-2006, 04:25 PM

Does Tyler know which clutch you're using? Different clutches need different volumes from the master/slave/hydraulic TO to get the clutch disengaged. If there's not air in the system it sounds like the volume of the master is too small or there isn't enough plunger movement.

Jody

analyte · #6 10-15-2006, 04:49 PM

Jody,

I've talked to Tyler 2-4 times a week for the past few weeks. I am using the full recommended setup. The 12 in Mcleod clutch with Mcleod P/P using the Mcleod SFI bell. I got all of this info from ATS so that is why I went with this setup. I am new to the whole clutch thing, so I was looking for a recomendation.

I called again to verify that nothing needed to be checked with a dial, shimmed, etc. and was told it all slides in with no fuss, as it did. He never said it and I didn't ask, but I'm sure he's used this setup or he wouldn't have never recommended it.

Now if its not air in the lines, I am back to square one with no idea what's up. The T/O doesn't touch the fingers until right before it touches the floor, about 1/16-2/16 before clutch stops.

Kerry

3kidsnotime · #7 10-15-2006, 05:37 PM

Another thing to check is make sure there is no load pressure on the input shaft to the crankshaft, Did the trans slide into the bell housing and seat or did you have to pull it up with the bolts? DO NOT drive the car this way but back the bolts off a little bit on the trans put the car in gear and depress the clutch, try to start it and see if the car wants move, If you have a load problem from the trans to crankshaft DO NOT run the engine at all I have seen it most times take the thrust out of the thrust bearing and or crankshaft, I hope the problem is simple and not this but some thing to look at.

youthpastor · #8 10-15-2006, 05:47 PM

maybe i'm being too simplistic here, but if the parts are the ones reccomended and it creeps- it really sounds like an air in the system problem. we see this all the time, sometimes they are a pain to bleed- did you mention how much throw you have on the slave? how does the pedal feel with the car off- it's amazing how much a couple of air bubbles can change things-Chris

analyte · #9 10-15-2006, 06:22 PM

With the bell, aluminum spacer ring, and the tranny I was able to slide it in to about 3/8 in from seating itself. I asked on LS1tech.com and was told I could use longer bolts to gently pull it the rest of the way, as others had done, since the slave pressure has to be overcome. So I used 4 bolts to pull it in a couple of turns at a time until seated, but none of the bolts ever felt tough or in a bind.

If I need to back off the bolts to verify the input is not in a bind, how much should I back the bolts off? 1/4 in, a few turns, just broke loose?

The slave is stock LS1 OEM from ATS, so I think it uses the same movement as the master in a 1:1 ratio, which is 15/16 in. The only other car with a hydraulic clutch I am able to compare to was my 540i6 and the T56 clutch feels about the same, medium but not firm, and the T56 grabs at the end of the clutch travel instead of right off the top like the BMW did.

Kerry

3kidsnotime · #10 10-15-2006, 06:59 PM

If you have pressure on the input to crankshaft, it is easy to tell when you back the bolts off do them evenly and you will be able to tell it will actually push itself out do it till it relaxes, then try the cranking steps good luck, and dont be worried you will figure it out and be shifting soon.