Another trick I have heard of but never done myself, is groove the lifter or the lifter bore so you get more pressurized oil onto the roller wheel. And yes it's better to have a little more spring pressure with solid rollers
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If it ain't buckin, chirpin & makin all kinds of bad noises, then I ain't happy
Accelerating is optional...........stopping is mandatory. Your car WILL stop one way or another.
I honestly don't remember but I know it's something he does on a regular basis. By big block solid roller standards, it's really a baby so I don't think it was a real consideration. Solid roller lifters are a wear item in all engines, especially big block chevys. I knew this since day one and that's why I've kept a fairly close eye on them. The valve spring pressure is likely what led to the failure. That or it's one hell of a conincidence. I've read a bunch of threads on solid roller failures and I don't recall valve spring pressure coming up but I feel it's likely the real issue. One thing to remember is a solid roller has lash while a hydraulic roller rides on the lobe at all times.
Swapping springs and replacing/rebuilding lifters are going to be part of the maintenence and I knew it, just didn't know the interval. It almost bit me.
I dont like the idea of gauging by miles driven. One of these days I'd like to install an hour gauge. Probably wouldn't be a bad idea for you either since you do alot of street driving. Just the fact that roller lifters dont like idling would be a pretty good deciding factor.
The guys at NYES told me one season for springs and lifters, 2 for rings and bearings and I told them exactly what I would be doing with the car. Yeah, I had a shaky start with those guys but I do believe they know what there doing and talking about now.