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  #21  
Old 05-28-2010, 07:28 PM
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GregWeld GregWeld is offline
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Here ya go Mike --- a flitch beam....

http://www.betterheader.com/


Just don't trying saying it fast three times to your wife ...
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  #22  
Old 05-28-2010, 08:39 PM
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thanks Greg. Well I'll admit, I didn't expect this when I posted that question. In the end, if it's going to be too much of a pain or too much money, I won't do it and will get used to working around it as I'm doing now. I know that posting pics don't always tell the whole store. Before I do anything, I plan on having someone come and look at it and see it in person. I posted this to see if it was even an option. Thanks again to everyone that responded.
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Pro Touring 68 Acadian(Nova)
Speedtech subframe with high clearance control arms
Prodigy Bar rear suspension
Ridetech single adjustable coilovers
Wilwood 12.2" brakes
New Gen Splitters
LS3 and TKO600

Link to my build: https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=14349

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  #23  
Old 05-28-2010, 10:06 PM
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For what its worth....I had a similar wood post in my shop and chaged it out to an adjustible steel post found in basements. Its cheap like $65 and it is way slimmer and sleeker than the thick wood post. It made a world of differance and was done in a half hour with the metal posts spray painted to match the shop.
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  #24  
Old 05-28-2010, 10:51 PM
nvr2fst nvr2fst is offline
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You two (not mike) need to start another thread on structural analysis for construction. Its not an issue of your degrees and background, its resolving the OPs issue only.
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  #25  
Old 06-02-2010, 12:54 AM
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skatinjay27 skatinjay27 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay Hilliard View Post
Im no engineer or architect, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night. I say remove the beam and see what happens......!

best post in this whole thread!
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1970 1/2 rs z28...pro-touring?...i wish...soon?
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  #26  
Old 06-02-2010, 08:05 AM
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MarkM66 MarkM66 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay Hilliard View Post
Im no engineer or architect, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night. I say remove the beam and see what happens......just kidding, dont do that!

I dont know about everyone else, but I'm going to sit back, grill some burgers and watch this.

Hopefully there will be some agreement and you can get some direction on what to do.

Good luck!
Yeah, if the saw starts to bind while cutting, you now know the answer. LOL.
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  #27  
Old 06-27-2010, 09:42 AM
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Mike........... So??????????????????


Are you "postless" yet??
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  #28  
Old 06-27-2010, 10:07 AM
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scherp69 scherp69 is offline
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No. I'm not going to worry about it right now. I ended up getting some wheel dollies for my car instead. It rolls around quite easy now with the dollies so easier to work on. I'd still like to eventually remove the post, but haven't gotten around to looking into it more.
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Pro Touring 68 Acadian(Nova)
Speedtech subframe with high clearance control arms
Prodigy Bar rear suspension
Ridetech single adjustable coilovers
Wilwood 12.2" brakes
New Gen Splitters
LS3 and TKO600

Link to my build: https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=14349

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  #29  
Old 06-27-2010, 05:29 PM
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LOL ---- good!


Car parts or posts.... I'd choose car parts!

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  #30  
Old 07-08-2010, 01:30 AM
Huyzel Huyzel is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Track Junky View Post
You can lead a horse to water........................

Obviously you are not seeing the difference between ridge boards and ridge beams.

The photos you posted are ridge boards not beams.

I'm done here, nap time, LOL
I agree with you Mr. Track Junky.. Ridge beams ARE structural. Ridge Boards are NOT structural. The picture posted clearly shows a ridge board design. You can see each rafter has a plumb cut and attached to the ridge BOARD. What worries me is that a person who is educated and has a degree in this field is either confused or doesnt know the difference. Now which is worse, a bad contractor or engineer? I hope you havent been arguing with contractors over the past 15 years about this particular subject.
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