Wiring for the car - Page 4 - Lateral-g Forums

AAW · #31 06-13-2006, 12:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by trapin

That'll be my Winter....plumbing and wiring. Now I know who to go through when it comes time to install the electrical.

Great Tony! I look forward to talking to you when you're ready.

Damn True · #32 06-13-2006, 01:05 PM

Zoiks that's a lot of wire. That's one system on the car that intimidates me. I'm terrified of hooking something up bass-ackwards and bzzzzzzap!

Mean 69 · #33 06-13-2006, 02:24 PM

Quote:

I'm terrified of hooking something up bass-ackwards and bzzzzzzap!

Having dealt with electronics for years, dating back to fixing helicopters in the military, I can tell you that the electronic components don't work as well once you let the "magic smoke" out of them.

M

**XcYZ** · #34 06-13-2006, 03:16 PM

Aye, that's the truth. And the thing about the magic smoke is that once it gets out it's really hard to put back in.

71Nova · #35 06-13-2006, 04:24 PM

Scott I was wondering if you are putting the fuse block under the dash in the stock location, or posibly moving it to the trunk. I noticed that the kit you are using does not have the plug that goes threw the firewall. I am getting ready to do the same on my nova. Mark I didnt know you worked on helicopters! I got out of the army 2 years ago and was an electrician on Apache longbows.

Mean 69 · #36 06-13-2006, 05:01 PM

Yep, but it was a LONG time ago by your clock, young man! Let's put it this way, I was in when they debuted the Apaches.... The aircraft I was working on at the time was as old as I was, long since retired from service (Gruman OV/RV-1D Mohawk surveillance fixed wing). 68 Foxtrot, I trained at Ft. Eustis, nice place.

To answer the question about whether a new harness is worth it relative to a decent old one, yes, they are far better. Like everything, wires age, the copper corrodes, and the wire insulation can break down. Plus, chances are really good someone has had their hands on the mess, and that usually isn't a good thing. I am sure there are exceptions, but EVERY muscle car I have owned has had at least one issue with the electrical. My favorite was my 72 Chevelle, when I would turn the headlights on, the gas gauge would drop 1/4 tank. If I think about it when I get home, I'll post a pic of the harness/fuse block I pulled out of the 68 Plymouth project, complete with the tinfoil fuse bypasses! That's always a classic.

M

ohcbird · #37 06-13-2006, 09:52 PM

Scott- Looks like fun man; I love wiring... Seriously!

Steve68- Let me know if you want some help; I've done professional rigging and wiring for years now. Remember my 'organized' garage? Half of those totes are filled with switches, wirirng, and rigging supplies.

Steve68 · #38 06-13-2006, 10:02 PM

Oh Jeff, empty your PM box, My buddy want them bars! call me

**XcYZ** · #39 06-13-2006, 10:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 71Nova

Scott I was wondering if you are putting the fuse block under the dash in the stock location, or posibly moving it to the trunk.

I'm still up in the air on location. I have to find a good spot for the BS3 ECM, the fuse block, and the Vintage Air bi-level heater/defrost box. I'll know more in a week or so.

Damn True · #40 06-14-2006, 12:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mean 69

Having dealt with electronics for years, dating back to fixing helicopters in the military, I can tell you that the electronic components don't work as well once you let the "magic smoke" out of them.

M

Same experience base. Coast Guard helicopters for me. Luckily I only had one "magic smoke" incident (funny we each know the same term for it) and it was a starter/generator that (thank god) was on a test bench after a rebuild rather than on an aircraft.

True should not rebuild starters at 3am on day 3 of hurricane Paka response in Guam.