evil zee project update

[GHOSTDANCER]

[cencal69]

Please go into detail on the FI Crossram. This has been a dream of mine for quite some time, but I beat my brains silly on how to do it. I even thought of fabbing up some round tube runners and mating them to a base of a manifold, but I am not a engineer, and I am broke, so there went that idea. Great work on the Camaro. Keep it up my friend. Take lots of pics of the plumming of the injectors, running of the fuel lines, ect.

I am now living my dreams through you.

[waynieZ]

Paint and body work look great . I would like to know more about the Crossram EFI also.

[evilzee28]

Originally Posted by cencal69

Please go into detail on the FI Crossram. This has been a dream of mine for quite some time, but I beat my brains silly on how to do it. I even thought of fabbing up some round tube runners and mating them to a base of a manifold, but I am not a engineer, and I am broke, so there went that idea. Great work on the Camaro. Keep it up my friend. Take lots of pics of the plumming of the injectors, running of the fuel lines, ect.

I am now living my dreams through you.

Thanks for the positive comments guys I'm gonna get the engine run in on a single 4bbl first & put some miles on it to shake the whole car down. This'll give some base line figures to work from & see how the crossram compares when it's set up & fitted. I'll keep you posted when it's done

[evilzee28]

The hood is an original GM cowl induction item but for some reason someone had drilled 46 1/8" holes in it!! :shake: :shocked: Probably to pull out some dents that were in it.

[evilzee28]

The holes were carefully plug welded with the MIG welder to avoid distortion.




Then a bit of hammer & dolly work, followed by grinding/filing out the welds & hey presto!!! no more holes Only 37 more holes to go!!

[evilzee28]

37 holes have now gone same principle as the previous post, weld up slowly to avoid distortion & then grind & file smooth whilst hammer/dollying the repaired areas,











Next I'll post up pics of how I lead loaded the repairs, using the hood as an example, cheers.....Nige

[evilzee28]

I've had quite a few people ask how I did the lead loading on my Camaro, so here's a brief outline on how it's done.

The front of the hood had some small holes in it. I could have cut out the rusted area & welded in new metal, but as it was on the front edge of the hood I decided to lead the repair instead. This cuts down on heat that could possibly distort the flat part of the hood & is an easier/quicker repair, as that area is also multiple skinned. Here's the procedure to lead load/body solder it.

First off all of the paint was removed & the panel taken down to bare metal. I also sand blasted the area to remove any traces of rust left. The metal was then gently tapped down below the surface of the rest of the hood.





Here are the items you'll need to carry out a lead/bodysolder repair. A blowtorch or oxy acetylene, brushable flux, a stick of solder, tallow (in the large tub, this is rubbed into the wooden paddles to prevent the solder sticking to it), wooden paddles to smooth the solder & a file to file the repair smooth afterwards.







The area is then brushed with flux ( the dark grey in the pic). This is then warmed up with the torch until it flows molten & is then wiped off with a moleskin cloth or leather (workmens) glove to "tin" the repair. You need to wipe it until all of the grey has turned bright silver in appearance. Keeping it clean is important at this stage







The area has now been "tinned" & ready for the lead/ body solder to be applied.







Applying the body solder, the lead stick (not visible in this pic, not enough hands to hold it & take photo) is melted with the blowtorch & pushed down onto the tinned metal until it starts to flow onto the panel. Put enough on until it's just proud of the surface to be repaired








As the lead is being pushed down onto the panel, you can smooth it out as you go. Dip your wooden paddle into some tallow, this stops the lead sticking to the paddle. You can then smooth the lead out as your applying it in a molten state to the panel. Spread the lead with the paddle just as you would if buttering some bread. The aim is to get it so's the lead is just proud of the panel & as smooth as possible to save time filing to shape afterwards. It goes without saying that if you don't put enough lead onto the panel you'll have low spots in the repair, which will need for you to repeat the procedure again. The down side of this is that as soon as you heat up the repair that you've done to add more lead, your original repair will start to go molten also destroying most of the work already done:tdown:





Here's what you're aiming for, the repair is just proud of the surface & is relatively smooth ready for filing.







The repair is then filed to shape ready for etch/epoxy primer.







The finished article. ready for priming. :tup:








Once completed it's nescessary to make sure that all traces of flux have been removed from the repair or it will affect the repairs in the future. Wash the repair down liberaly with panel wipe/thinners & then some fresh soapy water & dry immediately.

Hope that's dispelled some of the worries about lead loading/body soldering. It's really quite easy to do & I find it very therapeutic you can get kits that contain everything you need to do this from people like Frosts restoration equipment. A bit of time & patience & it's easily mastered. The beauty is that moisture cannot penetrate the repairs from behind. it only takes one pin hoile in a welded & filled repair & in time the moisture will get through the filler, this way it can't as all holes are filled with lead. Obviously it takes practice, especially on a vertical panel where the lead tries to fall off as it's being warmed up :pmsl: but it's do-able for the hobbyist.

Shortly I'll post up some techniques of how I made a fibreglass airbox for the cross ram & possibly some fibreglass mould making techniques when I make a mould & 'glass front bumper

Cheers.....Nige

[70rs]

Thanks for posting the lead work "how to".
Very interesting to see done. I have seen the finished product many times but never the actual procedure.

[evilzee28]

Thanks to those of you that have followed along on my build thread & thanks also for such great comments, they're greatly appreciated. Well, it's come to that time where the project is just about finished after a good few years locked up in the garage. Just a bit of fine tuning, a few tweaks here & there, fit the crossram intake & it's all done. Woo Hoo!!!!

The car's been on the road for a while now in an unfinished state, shaking it down & getting to grips with it. I'm extremely happy with the way it's turned out. It isn't built to be a show car & I certainly wouldn't expect it to do well in the trophy winning department. There's very little "bling", minimal chrome, no big wheels & no fancy paintwork. What I set out to do was build a car that looked as if it's a bit of a time warp, with nothing fitted to it that wouldn't have been fitted "back in the day".

Sure, it looks pretty stock & that's the whole ethos behind a build like this. Most people won't give it a second glance when they see it as there's nothing on it that shouts "look at me". That suits me just fine :tup:. It's not what you can see, it's what you can't see that makes this car a little bit special. If anythings been added or moved, it's just been painted satin black to look as if it's all original. A case in point being the front & rear suspension, looks all stock doesn't it?? The engine also, just looks like a clean, fuelie headed 302, nothing special to look at at all. All very understated. Again, the interior is just as GM intended apart from the roll cage & a couple of additional gauges to keep tabs on what's going on in the engine department. It's really a bit of a "plain Jane" car.

I've been asked quite a few times now which shows I'll be going to with the car, unfortunately its show duty will be minimal. It's built as a driver & a strong track competitor & to say I'm pleased with it is somewhat of an understatement :twisted: :pmsl:

Thanks for taking the time to follow the journey of the cars build & finally,
here's some pics of the finished article:-









































Thanks, cheers....Nige