Quote:
Originally Posted by Flash68
All I have to say is with as much money as you have in your car and motor(s) I just don't understand why you wouldn't make the necessary changes to go dry sump. You are continuously going faster and adding grip and that means more G's...
Did you already buy this sleeved block? Why not LS7 block and go aftermarket dry sump? I get it... already have the heads... bla bla bla. Just sayin....
But hey, at least you're out there busting up parts and stuff. 
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It's a fair question. And a decision that I'm not taking lightly, I promise...
There are a few factors at play here. Yes, cost is one of them, but I'm not letting it be the driving decision for me (all in, including my assumed Eric fab time, I'm looking at around $6.5 - 7k for the switch). The bigger issue is fitment of the tank.
Last night I spent an hour under the hood with my 'mockup' oil tank:
Some cardboard and posterboard built in the shape and size of the smallest tank recommended for me to use (6" diameter, 19.5" tall, ~2 gallon capacity). I'm trying to find a space to mount this.
Eric mounted a tank in SW's Camaro behind the passenger side headlight. That is the preferred spot for convenience / accessibility / hose routing. On my car though, I'd swear the inner fender is different in that area, and it would be a lot harder to cut / route the tank into that space. Not to mention I already have stuff in that area.
So then I am looking at a firewall mount. Because of the downbars we have as well as the AC hoses going into the car and the location of the header, I'm not comfortable that this location will work. Will my mock up fit? Yes, but only barely. By the time I add the clamps for mounting, I have less than 1/2" from the header tube to the side of the tank. That's not enough for me to be comfortable that it will actually fit, or not boil the oil in the tank due to heat.
Oh, not to mention that I'm not completely comfortable that the firewall would support the weight of a tank and 2G of oil right there without some significant reinforcement.
I also looked at the driver's side behind the headlight. That's where my radiator catch can is, and I still have the inner fender problem.
Any of these could be solved with more significant work to sheetmetal or header reshaping, etc. The problem becomes time. As I said, Eric is busy, and I'm not equipped to do it myself. But even if I were, I'm not 100% certain I have a spot available that would really work. I even looked at hanging it behind the radiator, but again there isn't enough clearance between the fans and the accessories.
Note that I do currently have an LS7 block. But I have a wet sump crank. I could convert to the LS7 dry sump, but if I'm going dry sump, I'm going Dailey external. I'll be using my current LS3-based heads on the new block. They make plenty of power, although stepping to an LS7 architecture would have more potential. That's for the next project.
I believe that I'm going to solve my problem with a better build, a fixed Accusump circuit, restricted flow pushrods, and a better oil pump (and possibly pan change, I'm going to look into that also). As Greg said, plenty of people run the LS engines without having oil supply problems. I will solve this!