Now that I have the car driving and have put miles on it, I thought I would circle back and update this thread. I ended up plumbing my system exactly like the picture in the first post with 1 exception. I added the pressure switch to the port in the front side of the LS block instead of in the external oil filter mount. It turned out to be a cleaner solution and would detect pressure loss that much earlier.
I needed an adapter to mount the pressure switch to the block, which I found by Googling the sizes I needed (cannot remember the exact part right now, but I think it was an M16 to 1/4" NPT adapter). You also need a crush washer for the metric side to seal the threads.
I mounted the Accusump itself on my front sway bar cross tube. This was a perfect spot, but it required an exact fit between my fan shroud and my crank pulley. I was concerned about making a bracket to clamp onto the tube which we could then attach the Accusump to. Some time Googling turned up these:
http://alabamaindustrialproducts.com..._Hardware.html
They make them in aluminum instead of the plastic, and that's what I used. They are big, as you can see below, and they aren't going anywhere. They offer a much smaller size, but I was concerned about the 1/4" bolts being strong enough to hold the weight. They probably would have been fine. Here's the ones I purchased:
The nice thing about the heavier duty clamp is that the plate on the end was thick enough to drill and tap to screw the bolts into to hold the billet clamps in place. That saved an extra piece for that purpose.
Here is a shot of it in place before clocking it at the correct angle:
With both clamps in place, I could sit the unit down for the first time to gauge how it would fit. Note the fan shroud was not in place when I did this:
Here's a good shot of the plumbing at the end of the Accusump. You can see all the lines I have running through this area, it gets crowded:
Next I reinstalled the shroud. This is when things got tight. The billet touched the fan, and if I clocked it to clear, it almost touched the PS pulley. I wanted to be able to remove and replace the PS pulley without having to remove the Accusump, so I ended up clearancing the billet bracket about 3/8", which was ok because there is a lot of meat there.
Here you can see at the other end how close the gauge comes to the radiator hose. I screwed up initially and clocked things such that I couldn't get to the shraeder valve, so we had to turn it and adjust.
That's it. I wired the 1 wire from the relay inside the car to the solenoid valve, then the other side of the valve to the pressure switch, and finally the other side of the pressure switch to ground. When both the relay is on (which supplies 12V to the valve) and the pressure switch is active (making a ground connection), the valve will open and release the oil pressure into the system.
Right now I have the Holley controlling the relay to enable it before start (which acts as a pre-luber), and any time RPM is above 1800. The latter was somewhat arbitrary based on my previous oil pressure levels. Now, with the new pump, I have higher idle pressure. High enough in fact that I probably could have just wired the valve to ignition voltage. Oh well, it's wired in now...
Seems to be functioning as it's supposed to, except as I will discuss in part 2 of this post...
Brian Hobaugh SCCA National Tour June 2014
First Hemi 'Cuda Convertible Ever Built
Short clips: Goodguys Pleasanton autocross and pit videos
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