This is MY 67 Camaro

[Steve68]

Originally Posted by Sonar Chief

Nice .... let' see some pixs!!!

Finally starting to look like a car again .... now to get the swing metal on the front end and get going on that quarter.

Thanks for looking ...

I have nothing, I now live in VA, eastern shore, the car and pics are in my shop in FL, there pic on my conversion thread on LS1 tech, never made one here, not worthy,

[Sonar Chief]

since I had an update. MY school work is taking most of my time lately, but I told myself I needed to get out there and get some stuff done before it gets too cold out.

So I cut out the floor for the sub frame connectors, got the drivers side done and most of the pass side. After I cut up the floor supports and found rust I said that's the last sheet metal that I haven't torn apart .... figured, rust had started everywhere else!!

I'll use some Eastwood frame rust inhibitor all through the support and weld her shut.

Question for those before me: the connector DSE gives you to weld the frame and connectors together ... what's peoples doing for a removable frame setup?? Any templates? Any recommendations for strength?

I can't cut 3/16" and make it look good, suggestions?


Drivers side nice and snug, should be easy weld here!

Pass side cut out, yeah RUST !

What to do about that gap prior to welding????

This is the DSE connector .... like to replace it with a bolt thru on the frame.

Need to tear the front swing metal off and get the frame outa the way and get some epoxy on the floor before I get to far and then weld the connectors in for good.

Thanks for looking .... keep on keepin on!

[Roberts68]

Not that it makes a whole lot of difference right now but are you by chance holding that subframe tab upside down in the last picture?

As usual I will watch and learn Chief, I have these sitting new in box for my '68.
I will admit I have had second thoughts about cutting into her especially with some of the bolt on or less invasive weld on subframe connector offerings.
I bought them because I deemed them to be the best cure for stiffening the chassis and the cleanest underside once completed.

[Sonar Chief]

Originally Posted by Roberts68

Not that it makes a whole lot of difference right now but are you by chance holding that subframe tab upside down in the last picture?

As usual I will watch and learn Chief, I have these sitting new in box for my '68.
I will admit I have had second thoughts about cutting into her especially with some of the bolt on or less invasive weld on subframe connector offerings.
I bought them because I deemed them to be the best cure for stiffening the chassis and the cleanest underside once completed.

Yeah I'm probably holding it upside down .... the point is the bracket was made to weld the two together, not too keen on that!

Think I'll head over to the metal dist. and see if I can find some square stock and match the connectors od with its id and make something longer to mate them up.

[Roberts68]

Originally Posted by Sonar Chief

Yeah I'm probably holding it upside down .... the point is the bracket was made to weld the two together, not too keen on that!

Think I'll head over to the metal dist. and see if I can find some square stock and match the connectors od with its id and make something longer to mate them up.

Looking forward to see what you come up with. It may be interesting to hear from DSE on how others have addressed it as well.

I intend to make the subframe bolt into the subframe connector as well, but I am okay with adding a tab of material to one or the other. I guess that's what I thought these supplied pieces were drilled for.

[Build-It-Break-it]

Hey Sonar Chief, I had the same little dilemma. After searching I saw how chassis works attaches there subframe to there subframe connectors.

They have a piece of square tubing in each side of the subframe that slides into the subframe connector then has bolts that go through to attach everything. This makes it removable. Just make sure you put crush sleeves so when you bolt everything up they don't crush in on each other.

I like there design the best, everything is removable and secure. Hope this helps. Just look on there website.

[Sonar Chief]

Originally Posted by Build-It-Break-it

Hey Sonar Chief, I had the same little dilemma. After searching I saw how chassis works attaches there subframe to there subframe connectors.

They have a piece of square tubing in each side of the subframe that slides into the subframe connector then has bolts that go through to attach everything. This makes it removable. Just make sure you put crush sleeves so when you bolt everything up they don't crush in on each other.

I like there design the best, everything is removable and secure. Hope this helps. Just look on there website.

I just visited their site and hear what you are stepping in ... I went to the metal distributor place and they looked at me oddly, seems rectangular tubing is something they don't carry. What??

I like the male/ female idea .... keep thinking folks!

[waynieZ]

My tabs are going to be welded to the front subframe and bolted through the frame connector

[Sonar Chief]

Originally Posted by waynieZ

My tabs are going to be welded to the front subframe and bolted through the frame connector

Wayne ... thanks for the pixs! So you drilled new holes where DSE said to puddle weld thru their holes?

You think that the difference in the gauges (14ga bracket) and the stock frame (butt welded) will be strong enough? Any input is good .... cuz I don't want to redo this part. Getting in and out from under my cart is hard enough ... should have made the cart much taller

Thanks Wayne!

[Roberts68]

I would mimic that. There will be little to no flex in the box tubing of the frame connector right there once the end cap is welded on.
A guy could put a piece of tube in flush as an anti crush sleeve, if that's warranted.