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  #81  
Old 08-30-2013, 02:06 PM
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1965_SS 1965_SS is offline
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Really nice work on that frame!
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  #82  
Old 08-30-2013, 02:14 PM
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Thanks guys. I finally got some input from HPI on the trans mount not allowing the trans to move back far enough. They are going to redesign their kit and send me some parts to alleviate my issue. Tyler is a pretty good guy in my book.

I will get out there a little this weekend between soccer tournaments to make the adjustments and get some engine mounts drawn up for the vendor I work with to do some cuts.

Really getting anxious to get some work done.

HEEP
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  #83  
Old 11-27-2013, 03:10 PM
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Alright guys, I'm finally setting the engine. do we point the trans down 3*? Need to know fairly quick so I can get measurements for engine mounts.

thanks in advance.

HEEP
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  #84  
Old 11-27-2013, 03:19 PM
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I am pretty sure you want to be between 2 to 3 degrees.
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  #85  
Old 11-27-2013, 03:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tubbed69 View Post
I am pretty sure you want to be between 2 to 3 degrees.
yep, 2.5 worked for me ('65). But,what is most important is the drive shaft working angles on either end are equal, or close to it. So, ride height and rear end type (pinion height and angle) affect it.
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  #86  
Old 11-27-2013, 03:38 PM
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Great story and project, you will get it done just keep at it and save your pennies!
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  #87  
Old 11-27-2013, 05:44 PM
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alright, thanks for the quick replies. Just verified what I thought was correct. So measuing the door jamb, it is 2.7* pointed down in the rear. Measuring the engine on the valley cover, I am at 5.5* pointed down in the rear. I think I will let it stand there. I can now start measuring and drawing out the frame mounts for the engine mounts. I'll get that done and get the metal next week.

So here is what I have been up to the last couple of days. I had to modify the HPI trans mount. It wouldn't let me slide the engine back where I wanted it at. Tyler was very helpful, send a couple of tube mounts for me to use, but I decided to go a different route. Had some metal cutout and I added it to the crossmember.


Of course, I had to do both sides.


Now it fits in there better.


It spreads the load over the side brackets better.


HEEP
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  #88  
Old 11-27-2013, 06:08 PM
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So after buying the "muscle car oil pan", i was not very happy. Most of you that have gone this route weren't either. didn't know that until after I had already purchased it. So I ended up getting a 4th gen pan and going that route instead. I had seen Aaron use this with his 65' so I found the cheapest one I could. found the whole thing for about $260 with free shipping. I went from this





Modified the front crossmember






So I solved my issue with the drag link hitting the pan.


And we are not going to drag the pan


HEEP
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  #89  
Old 11-27-2013, 07:36 PM
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214Chevy 214Chevy is offline
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Way to put in some hard work buddy. Looking good!
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  #90  
Old 11-27-2013, 07:41 PM
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Looking really good! I like the crossmember mods. I would think that the longer mounting tabs would cut down on twisting, but I'm not an engineer.
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70 velle' on custom chassis w/custom RideTech coilovers, RED sleeved 434” with Mamo 265’s, F-body Magnum, 12 bolt 3:73, wilwood 6/4's, bla, bla, bla...build. thread https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=39631
New 434” engine build here https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ved-block.html

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