Rolling fender lips... - Lateral-g Forums

Y-TRY · #1 09-12-2005, 01:03 PM

What's the best way to roll rear lips on a '68? I remember seeing a cool tool for it a while back.

What pointers do you guys have?

How difficult is it to do right / How easy is it to do wrong?

Can I also cut the trim pieces and roll them as well? I need a bit more clearance at the lip and may even have to take the wheels out slightly, as it rubs the inner wheel well under cornering.

**XcYZ** · #2 09-12-2005, 01:06 PM

Marty posted a pic of the tool he has for that:

https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=1814

awr68 · #3 09-12-2005, 01:28 PM

Would a rear sway bar help at all..if you don't have one already of course.

Musclerodz · #4 09-23-2005, 02:09 AM

Is it rubbing inner and outer, or do you need to roll the lip to move the wheel out? If it is rubbing that much, you may need to go to a narrower wheel, wider hole, or possibly a lateral location device. The last option I am guessing you have springs.

On my 68 we used a bucking bar and hammer to roll the lip to give it a finished edge.

Mike

**Steve Chryssos** · #5 09-23-2005, 03:41 PM

I'm about to roll my rear lips and modify my rear backspacing--old school style (baseball bat for the lips and a Bridgeport for the wheel offset). Paint damage may occur, but hey, the tires already did their share of damage after three years of abuse, so I don't have anything to lose.

I'll take pictures. Wait here.

Damn True · #6 09-23-2005, 04:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by streetfytr68

I'm about to roll my rear lips and modify my rear backspacing--old school style (baseball bat for the lips and a Bridgeport for the wheel offset). Paint damage may occur, but hey, the tires already did their share of damage after three years of abuse, so I don't have anything to lose.

I'll take pictures. Wait here.

Are you going to mill the mounting face of your fiske's?

That's a bold move. I dunno if I could nut up enough for that.

**Steve Chryssos** · #7 09-23-2005, 06:59 PM

Oh, be afraid. Be very afraid. I'm only thinking about it. The proper solution is to send the rear wheels back to Kinesis Motorsport and have them swap rim halves. They will need to swap both halve since I want to subtract 1/2" outside and add it back to the inside. That's the right way to do it and that's why I spent the big bucks on modular wheels in the first place.

But Twist Machine is my top (one and only?) priority lately, so I'm considering doing the nasty. I have 1/2" ARP wheel studs so the taper has plenty of surface area/clamping force--and we are dealing with forged aluminum here. But the wheels may still crack. What is it? Measure once, cut twice?

So I will stop here. Roll my wheel well lips and call Kinesis.
Here, share in my dilemma (use the slideshow feature or click on each pic to zoom in:
http://homepage.mac.com/streetfytr/PhotoAlbum37.html

Damn True · #8 09-23-2005, 07:23 PM

Oh man!

I wonder if it might be cheaper to take 1/2" off each end of your axle housing and try to find some shorter axles on ebay or something?

How much room did rolling the lip give you?

**Steve Chryssos** · #9 09-23-2005, 08:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Damn True

I wonder if it might be cheaper to take 1/2" off each end of your axle housing and try to find some shorter axles on ebay or something?
How much room did rolling the lip give you?

Nuh uh. If I pull the rear for a basic width change then you know I'll just order up a double throw-down Ford 9". And If I get the 9", you know I'll need a kickass Lateral Dynamics 3-Link. And while I'm at it, I may as well do a mini-tub. And if I do the mini-tub, I may as well send the wheels back and have them widened. That's just how it goes if you're a car junkie. So there's no way shortening the rear would be cheaper.

As for rolling the lips (I hate that expression). I'll get back to you. I took a break. I'm doing shots of Jack Daniels right now to help me cope with the possibiliy of paint damage.

race-rodz · #10 09-23-2005, 08:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by streetfytr68

Nuh uh. If I pull the rear for a basic width change then you know I'll just order up a double throw-down Ford 9". And If I get the 9", you know I'll need a kickass Lateral Dynamics 3-Link. And while I'm at it, I may as well do a mini-tub. And if I do the mini-tub, I may as well send the wheels back and have them widened. That's just how it goes if you're a car junkie. So there's no way shortening the rear would be cheaper.

spoken like a true car guy..... just go with plan A for now... if ya damage it..chalk it up in the battle damage catagory.... it adds character