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  #1  
Old 12-20-2020, 01:02 PM
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Default I keep killing optima red top batteries

Hi guys,

I need help figuring out how/why I keep killing optimas.

The car:
1967 Camaro
New aaw wiring
Ls with lsa blower.
Bosch intercooler pump. Pump stops working when key is off.
Anvil light bar headlights
Holley dash/ dominator ecu
Vaporworx fuel module
Zl1 pump.

Where should I start looking? Could it be a bad ground? Is something still on even though the key is off?

Jr
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Old 12-20-2020, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jr View Post
Hi guys,

I need help figuring out how/why I keep killing optimas.

The car:
1967 Camaro
New aaw wiring
Ls with lsa blower.
Bosch intercooler pump. Pump stops working when key is off.
Anvil light bar headlights
Holley dash/ dominator ecu
Vaporworx fuel module
Zl1 pump.

Where should I start looking? Could it be a bad ground? Is something still “on” even though the key is off?

Jr

Have you tested for parasitic battery drain?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zdIKNnwEjIs
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Last edited by cjfirstgen; 12-20-2020 at 02:50 PM.
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Old 12-20-2020, 05:28 PM
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No, but I will.
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Old 12-20-2020, 07:24 PM
morrisclassic morrisclassic is offline
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Default battery drain

cjfirstgen is giving good info.
I had the parasitic drain problem on my 69 Camaro,
finally found it of all things the clock in the stereo!!
It took a while for the battery to drain but over time
setting in the garage the car wouldn't't crank.
Billy
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  #5  
Old 12-21-2020, 06:58 AM
dhutton dhutton is online now
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Define killing. Is it discharged or is it damaged and not chargeable?

Are you using the correct charger for Optima batteries?

Don
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Old 12-21-2020, 09:10 AM
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Cjfirstgen is giving good info.
Parasitic drain.
I had the same exact problem on my 68 Camaro and found two leaks from my fuel injection and transmission computers. Since both loads have to bypass my disconnect switch and go directly to the lead of the battery, I decided to change out my red top Optima and install an Odyssey battery.
Problem solved. Odyssey batteries rule!
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Old 12-21-2020, 09:28 AM
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That is the biggest issue with the modern ECU's and electronics we have put into classic cars. Most new cars have some small amount of parasitic drain but in theory they get driven regularly where our classic cars do not. A battery maintainer is pretty much a necessity. You can also utilize a battery disconnect which I recommend.

Not all maintainers or chargers are created equally. I use R2's for their digital readout but CTEK and others use the same pulse type charging technology aka (smart chargers). Learn about the difference here.

https://www.r2batterysaver.com/batte...earch-summary/

https://www.r2batterysaver.com/produ...attery-rescue/
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Old 12-21-2020, 11:34 AM
CarlC CarlC is offline
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One of the challenges of having a not-driven-often car and using a complete system disconnect switch is that the long and short fuel trims get deleted once power to the ECM is disconnected. Not a big deal, but it may mean the car is a bit "cranky" until 1-2 cold start and run cycles are complete.

I use a disconnect switch to disconnect the main power buss but have a simple 5A circuit breaker bypass in order to protect the whole system when in storage. A battery maintainer is easy enough to do.
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Old 12-21-2020, 01:36 PM
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I usually have the battery connected to a battery tender. I was looking at the optima 400 and 1200 series.

I will look into the ctek maintainer.
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Old 12-21-2020, 01:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhutton View Post
Define killing. Is it discharged or is it damaged and not chargeable?

Are you using the correct charger for Optima batteries?

Don
Dead/discharged not damaged. This is the 4th optima Ive put into the car in 4 years.
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