What spindles and controll arms do you recommend

[68rssscamaro]

hey guys i am using my stock 1968 camaro chassis,but i really need some straight forward advice,
i am planning on using 1 of these three front upper and lower controll arms

ridetech

detroit speed engineering

speedtech

i wish to know a couple of pointers

should the guldstrand mod be performed with any of the above using a standard drum brake spindle

or should i buy some drop spindles as well
ifso please explain why?

and last i have a 3rd gen power box (as recommended by david pozzi,s website) or should i go to a rack?

the car will most likely never see any autocross work
i have already fitted a complete 4link ridetech rear under the car
as well as dse style deep tubs
all info would be really appreciated thanks glenn

[Amituk]

If you want to keep your existing subframe,

I would say go ridetech strong arms, tall spindles and their tru turn system.

That way you can keep your power steering box, and get all the benefits of lower ride height, and corrected geometry.

The ridetech 48 hour camaro uses this setup and does fairly well at autocross and in reality will be fine for road use.

Next level up, I would say get a complete DSE subframe with rack and pinion steering. It will give you all of the above in terms of handling performance, but will be lighter than the stock subframe so you may gain speed performance and poise.

With regards to which subframe, DSE, Speedtech, Art morrison etc, thats your choice based on cost, strength, weight, completeness as a total package. There isnt a great deal in it in term of what you will feel when you drive the car

Next level again would be to combine an uprated subframe or custom chassis with upgrade to corvette c5/c6 spindles and uprated hubs which again are lighter than stock spindles. This it what I have gone for in my project, but probably over kill for most people

[Rick D]

Stay with a system don't go mixing different parts from different suppliers. DSE builds their stuff to work as a system, Ride Tech builds theirs as a system, and you guessed it Spedd Tech builds theirs as a system. All of these company's build top of the line systems this way if something doesnt work or you have any kind of issues you have one place to go for the advise on how to solve the issue.

With all that put of the way, first make some phone calls talk to each of the company's about why you should run their products, let them know what you intend todo with the car! The company's that build the parts will be able to give the best advise on what parts will work.

Also if you have the Ride Tech rear setup already I would start there as they can tell you what will work best with that setup!

Not saying that the Ride Tech is better then the other company's mentioned just saying that's where I would start.

[marolf101x]

Though you may never autocross the car you may still want to consider upgrading the performance of that vehicle while you are there (or you can do it in stages as all our parts are in "kit" form or "a la carte"). I equate it to driving a decent handling dumptruck compared to a M3. I assure you you won't be disappointed.

Number One: Wheels and Tires
If you are keeping the steelies and 15's the suspension upgrades won't be as effective as a more performance oriented wheel and tire combo. It will still handle better, but there's more available.

Number Two: Control Arms and Spindles
For the best "all around" option you want to look into our spindles as well as control arms. The tall spindle provides a 2" drop over the stock spindle, but also moves the upper control arm mount up, thereby negating the need for the guldstrand mod:
http://www.ridetech.com/store/muscle...hash=V264.V328
When using our control arms you have to use a coil over or a Shockwave. Since you already have the rear set up (coil overs I'm guessing) this is no problem. Our coil over kit bolts right into that sub with only one modification. . .drilling the stock shock mounting hole to 3/4" to fit our Delrin Ball and Socket mount.

Number Three:
You might also consider our TruTurn system as it really makes that old ride feel like a new sports car (and works like hell. . .I've been able to run with, and beat, many cars with aftermarket sub frames.)
http://www.ridetech.com/store/tru-tu...gm-f-body.html

[Musclerodz]

Since you already have ridetech out back, I would use their components up front. I would not install a rack, the bolt on kits suck, use their Tru-Turn kit instead. the DSE Delphi box is night and day difference and will give you a rack feel.

[68rssscamaro]

thanks guys your help is duely noted
i am running vintage wheel works on all for corner's sizes are
18x8,s with 255/35 on the front and 18x11 with 335/30,s on the rear
unfortunately i cant use the truturn system(this was my first preferance
but the governing body for car modifications here in Australia will not allow
an adaption of sorts to the original drag link
therefore i can use the ridetech upper and lower strongarm with out using the guldstrand mod(correct me if i am wrong) i can also use there tall spindles is that correct? whilst using the stock draglink,

i hope you guys can see where i am coming from

thankyou glen

[Musclerodz]

You can't run both tall spindles and gulstrand mod. They will not work together.

[chr2002ca]

On my '69 I'm running a stock subframe with stock-type drum spindles and using stock-type steering components, but I'm using a mixture of aftermarket arms, "long" upper ball joints, shocks, brakes, and 2 inch drop coil springs. I did not need to do the G-mod due to the aftermarket arms giving me the same camber/caster gains that the G-mod would do. My setup will allow me to run 275 tires up front on an 18x9/9.5 rim and still have good steering clearance and turning radius without notching the frame. I have a fairly detailed write-up with photos on what I chose and why on my build thread here:

https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=37743

I'm not recommending my setup to anyone, I'm only giving you an example that seems to meet your requirements. It's not a 'system' from one single manufacturer so I lose some support potential there and possible other 'system' features, and I may run into bump steer issues which I noted in the write-up. That's something I'll determine once I get it on the road/track. If I have bump steer issues, I'll have to figure out a way to raise the mount points on the center link or raise the centerlink itself, or lower the mount points on the steering knuckles. Lowering the mount points on the steering knuckles may be challenged by rim clearance. I'll deal with that if bump steer seems to be an issue.

Good luck with choosing your setup.

[Amituk]

Yes you can use the ridetech spindles and control arms without the tru turn.

You will just loose the caster/bumpsteer improvements provided by the tru turn.

personally, I would just install the tru turn. How are the authorities going to know its different lengths to the original. They look the same.

only if they have the old ones side by side will they know the difference

[Rick D]

Originally Posted by Amituk

Yes you can use the ridetech spindles and control arms without the tru turn.

You will just loose the caster/bumpsteer improvements provided by the tru turn.

personally, I would just install the tru turn. How are the authorities going to know its different lengths to the original. They look the same.

only if they have the old ones side by side will they know the difference

I think he means with the center drag link bracket from the Tru turn? They would see that for sure? This bracket.