Stock vs. Tall ball-joints vs. Fatman Spindles - Lateral-g Forums

Derek69SS · #1 07-27-2005, 08:54 PM

I'm thinking about using SC&C's tall ball-joints with stock spindles on my '69 Chevelle. At $85 each, that puts them at $340, which seems pretty pricey to me, but I think it'll fit my plans better than the new $299 Fatman spindles.

My concern with the Fatman spindles is primarily my wheels not clearing the steering arm. I'm running 15x7 for a year until I can afford 17x8s. Another thought is that with a 2" spindle drop, I won't be able to do much spring drop to lower the roll-center. (not that I really understand all this geometry stuff, but I've done some reading on the basics) I'll probably do 3" drop total. Fatman spindles are $40 cheaper, and I could sell my stock disc spindles instead of using them, and probably get $200+ out of them. So, for $240 less, I could have the fatman spindles which might not clear my wheels.

The tall B-Js seems slightly better for what I want to do, but I'm not sure a slight roll-center change is worth that much money. ($240 is a lot on my limited budget!!!)

I'd like to use the Pole Positions adjustable upper A-arms, but that $385 really doesn't fit the current budget. Will I be able to run stock uppers temporarily until I can afford the adjustables???

My other thought is to just go stock for now, stick the money into the drivetrain, and just get it done cheaply. I can always improve the geometry and swap out for good springs and shocks when I put 13" vette brakes on it after I get the 17s.

I know what I should do, I just need you guys to tell me I'm right

I'm doing the rear suspension right this time, using all Wolfe Racecraft spherical stuff

I might skip the springs and shocks temporarily, but those are easy to change when funds permit. I hate the Poly crap that I've got in there now!

sinned · #2 07-27-2005, 09:13 PM

Derek, you were doing fine with your thinking until you decided you needed to LOWER your FRCH. The "A" body chassis already has a FRCH of about zero to -4" depending on the amount of spring drop. You want to lower the CoG and ride for aesthetic reasons by lowering the chassis but at the same time raise the FRCH and improve the camber characteristics through the use of either taller spindles or taller ball joints. It is best to actually measure the chassis first and get a baseline before deciding what needs to be done. The drop spindles are the way to go for your drop, it maintains the LCA pivot to LBJ height difference....just lowers them both almost equally.

Derek69SS · #3 07-27-2005, 09:57 PM

Thanks for clearing that up... I guess I misunderstood something I read about roll center height

Any idea if the steering arms will have interferance problems, and if stock UCA's will work with the 2" taller spindle?

Musclerodz · #4 07-28-2005, 01:34 PM

If I am not mistaken, you only put the tall BJ in the upper end? That would be $170 not $340 for 4 of them. If you got questions, call Marcus directly. He will steer you in the right direction.

Mike

sinned · #5 07-28-2005, 07:09 PM

You want to use the tall ball joints in both upper and lower positions to effectively lengthen the spindle.

Will the steering arms be a problem...only trial and error will tell. Not with 17's or bigger.

You can use the stock arms but the Pole Position arms are highly recommended.

Derek69SS · #6 07-28-2005, 07:15 PM

I guess I'll know more about what I plan to do on Sunday night if my wagon meets the reserve. If it don't sell, I'm rebuilding stock for now, and will redo the whole front suspension in a year or 2. I'd like to do it right the first time and be done with it... maybe I'll do the fatman spindles, and if the arms interfere, I'll be getting that nice tax refund in time to get some 17s and get the car back on the road before my wedding.