dual m/c and balance bar

[GM Muscle]

ok so i have a stock 69 camaro braking system, 4 wheel power drum brakes.
i have a set of 4 wheel disc off of a 2002 trans am and the adapter plates for the fronts to bolt them up to my stock drum hub. of course i know i have to turn the drum down to fit the rotor.
My motor is not going to have enough vaccuum to run the power booster right and i dont really like the looks fo all the lines and stuff on the hydro boost setup, so im opting for a manual daul master cylinder and balance bar setup. im guessing 7/8front and 1"rear? what should i go with using the discs? im trying to keep this car budget oriented so any input would help. ive seen a few cnc setups for like 300 or so but if i can just go to smilies and pick up some wilwood m/c's im only 1 mile away. thanks in advance.

[turbo67camaro]

How big the MC's are, depends on the piston area of the calipers.

To calculate piston area, use the following equation: πr2 (3.14159 x radius squared.)

If using calipers with more than one piston, calculate the area for each piston, and then add the areas together. If the caliper has pistons on both sides of the rotor, disregard one side.

Caliper Piston Area (in2) - Master Cylinder Bore Diameter (in)
Up to 3.6 - 5/8
3.6 to 4.2 - 7/10
4.2 to 4.5 - 3/4
4.5 to 4.7 - 13/16
4.7 to 5.5 - 7/8
5.5 to 5.9 - 15/16
5.9 to 6.3 - 1
6.3 to 7.6 - max 1⅛

Often, the piston diameter is known and specified in millimeters.

Example: 45mm rear single piston calipers. So:

45mm diameter = 22.5mm radius
22.5 millimeters radius = 0.885826772 inches radius
Piston Area = 3.14159 * 0.885826772 inches * 0.885826772 inches = 2.465 in2

Thus, a 5/8" bore MC is called for in this example.

[GM Muscle]

wow. thanks man

[Apogee]

In addition to turbo67camaro's information, you'll want to consider the brake balance that you want to build into your system. Normally you would size the MC bore for the front caliper (twin 43mm in this case), then the rear and then adjust the rear bore (typically increase in order to reduce pressure) to set the baseline balance of the system. This should take your ride height, weight distribution, tires, etc into consideration as well as the range of adjustability of the balance beam setup for optimal performance, but a 65/35 or 70/30 split is fairly typical.

A balance bar system generates a linear relationship between front and rear brake pressure based on the bore sizes of the MC's. There is no "proportioning" involved unless you install a proportioing valve, adjustable or otherwise, into the rear system. The only adjustment is on the beam to shift your balance front to back or vice versa.

It's actually a bit more involved than that, so I would strongly suggest contacting Tilton and discussing your application with them as they seem to have the most helpful technical support IMHO, nothing against Wilwood or CNC Brake.

Tobin
KORE3

[GM Muscle]

Ok guys im ready to do this. Does any one recommend a specific brand of m/c and or pedal? anyone use any combination on theirs that worked out good?

[Payton King]

I am running a twin set up on my car. I use tilton masters and if you are willing to cut up your stock set up now I can give you pics of mine. the easier way is to use a tilton pedal set up as well, but you may have to alter to pedals. if you want more info let me know.

[XLexusTech]

Turbo 67 thanks for the post great info right there

[GM Muscle]

Originally Posted by Payton King

I am running a twin set up on my car. I use tilton masters and if you are willing to cut up your stock set up now I can give you pics of mine. the easier way is to use a tilton pedal set up as well, but you may have to alter to pedals. if you want more info let me know.

let me know what i need to do.

[Payton King]

My work computer. I will post them monday.

More than one way to do this. Get on the Tilton site and they have a pedal system with clutch and brake. To use that one you may need to cut into the cowl a small amount not enough to effect your wipers. Looking at the drawing on their site, I think it will fit without doing that. Because the way the toe kick comes out you may need to alter the pedals which is easy to do.

You could also do like I did and alter the stock pedals. I had Jim Pettigrew do mine and I am sure he could do one for you as well.

The third option is use a remote ballance set-up where you leave your stock pedals, mount the remote system on the firewall. Ron DeRaad did that on his 68 with the twin turbo ford motor and Tyler was working on a similar deal.

By far the easiest thing to do is just run the car the way it came from the factory and use a Wilwood tandem master 7/8 bore. It will stop great and bolt right up. The stock pedal ratio in the top hole is 6 to 1. A little more ratio by drilling a new hole a little higher up will make the pedal easier to push.

[GM Muscle]

id like to see some pics of your setup if you have any