Bellhousing run out checking??

[CreepinDeth]

Looking to bolt up a T56 to a 1970 Olds Rocket 350. (Going from Auto to Manual)
I'm ordering Mcleod's 8710-00 Universal Bellhousing to do it.

I saw a post by a member on an Olds forum with details on how to drill out the
pilot bearing clearance on the crankshaft , so that part I got figured out.
The part I DO NOT have figured out.....is how to measure and correct the
Bellhousing run out with a dial indicator and sized dowel pins.

I have no idea where you're supposed to mount the magnetic base to know you have dead center for starters.
Then I really don't quite "get it" how the dowels correct this.
Can any one do a "Bellhousing adjustmnents for dummies" quick lesson for me ??

This is what I am talking about. Any input is much appreciated.

The next thing I did was check the runout of the bellhousing. Its just a hair out of recommended specs but better safe than sorry I ordered some .007 off set dowel to correct it.
I tried to remove the dowels with vise grips and a little heat but all they would do is spin. I decided to make a makeshift puller by tacking a 1/2" nut on the dowels. I then took a 1/2" bolt and another nut and pull them right out by pressing against the back side of a larger socket. They came right out.

[Vegas69]

Do some searching, there are some decent how to's. I'll sumarize it. Mount the dial indicator base to the crankshaft(removing one flywheel bolt), make sure the dial indicator isn't at a large angle, rotate the engine 360 degrees and find the high and low point(don't worry about anything else), you take the difference between high and low and divide, if that number is under .005 you're good, if not then you need get offset dowels and move the bellhousing towards your high point. For instance, if your difference is .020 your bellhousing needs to move approx .010 to get it within tolerance.

[CreepinDeth]

http://www.camaros.org/bellhousings.shtml

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3sTdT...eature=related

Okay, I think I get it now. I found these two things to help me. Thanks.

[Vegas69]

It doesn't have to be, the indicator stays in the same position on the crank as you rotate the engine.

[camcojb]

Aces (I think this is you my second gen friend........... )............. you don't have to get the dial indicator in the exact center of the crank (actually should be slightly offset). As long as it's firmly held to the crank and the pin locates in the locating id hole of the bellhousing you're good. Turn the engine until the indicator is straight up and zero the gauge. Then turn it 90 degrees and watch and record how much run out (in thousandths) there is, + or -. From there you can determine which way it needs to shift.

For example if it's 0 up top but +6 at the bottom it needs to be moved down 3 degrees (need to add the two readings and divide by two to get the difference. If it's off to one side and down it's the same thing, but will be moved both down and over to whichever side it needs to be. After adjustments to the dowels (if required, many don't) always re-check you readings to verify it's right.

One thing......... McLeod has some nice offset dowels that are adjustable and easier to use, others also have them. Lakewoods not so much. I've also found McLeods bellhousing much more accurate than Lakewood.

Here's a link that will help:

http://www.superchevy.com/technical/...ing/index.html

[dubbleu]

Try this link here.
https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=23913

[CreepinDeth]

Thanks alot guys, ALL the links and details were a TREMENDOUS help. I get it now.
Now I just gotta find a welder looking for work locally.

That plus I have to see exactly how the mech linkage all actually hooks up.
Never done that before either, but so far I think I got this down for the kill.

Originally Posted by camcojb

Aces (I think this is you my second gen friend........... )

Yeah it's me Jody. WOOT....

What gave me away ?? LOL