Need help with Baer Brakes

[DFRESH]

Need some opinions of those of you running these setups. Got the fronts installed (14inch Pro Plus on ATS Spindles, rear is still stock drum, master/power booster stock--ok to use per Baer) and began breaking them in last night with light driving per their instructions. On the first night, about half way through the "light driving" part, a Tahoe swerves over to check out my car and looses control momentarily---so naturally I jam on the brakes---later on in the drive, I notice a slight vibration in the pedal and the steering wheel upon braking. I took it home, let it cool off for the night. Tonight, I take it out and same vibration is there, at braking speeds over like 40. I've never broken in a set of these before, but plenty of other brakes--could that one jam of the pedal have warped these rotors all ready? If so--can these rotors be turned? Anybody experience this or something like it? Thanks guys--would be nice if something went right--just once.

Doug

[Payton King]

that one stop did not warp the rotors. Normally the bed in proceedure only takes 2 sets of 6 to 8 stops with a cool down in between. Check to make sure everything is tight first. You may have a small amount of build up of brake materal on the rotor. A couple of hard stops should clean it off.

Are you rotors slotted or drilled?

[DFRESH]

They are both slotted and drilled---

So there may be some pad material build up on the rotors---and a couple hard stops will clean that off? I will give that a try tonight. I read through Stop Tech's info as well--they encouraged using Garnet paper and sanding the rotors to break off the pad residue---guess I will try both.

[Vegas69]

Check the lug nuts, tie rod ends, ball joints, and rotor bolts..... Agree there is no way in hell you warped those rotors.

[Steve1968LS2]

You also could have a zinc build up on the pads. Generally it wears off the rotors slowly during break in, but maybe that hard stop caused it to clump onto the pad and now there's a slight high spot.

If so then it should eventually burn off. Now this is just a guess on my part since there's no way the rotors warped from what you described.

If it doesn't go away give the guys at Baer a call, they are always helpful

[Steve1968LS2]

Originally Posted by DFRESH

They are both slotted and drilled---

So there may be some pad material build up on the rotors---and a couple hard stops will clean that off? I will give that a try tonight. I read through Stop Tech's info as well--they encouraged using Garnet paper and sanding the rotors to break off the pad residue---guess I will try both.

Yea.. I've sanded mine before. It also works for when stuff gets glazed.

[Bow Tie 67]

I had something similar happen at Gingerman last year. Although my rotors and pads were well seasoned. Mark Stielow used a term, which I can not remember for life of me, and said it was build up of uneven pad material on the rotors. He suggested easy light braking to help re-bed the rotors correctly, eventually the pulsing went away.

Bedding in brakes is a process of depositing an even layer of brake pad onto your rotors. As the brake system is used the layer is, in flux, its constantly being removed and replaced.

[Apogee]

Originally Posted by Bow Tie 67

I had something similar happen at Gingerman last year. Although my rotors and pads were well seasoned. Mark Stielow used a term, which I can not remember for life of me, and said it was build up of uneven pad material on the rotors. He suggested easy light braking to help re-bed the rotors correctly, eventually the pulsing went away....

Disc Thickness Variation (DTV) maybe? It doesn't take much variation to get a pedal pulsation that you can feel. Also, as mentioned above, any looseness in the steering components (bushings, wheel bearings, tie-rod ends, ball joints, alignment settings, etc) can act to magnify the issue.

Tobin
KORE3

[DFRESH]

Wanted to let you guys know that I had the rotors "Blanchard" ground at a local place here in Tustin. Pretty cool setup--they measured each face--LF was dead nuts, RF was .003 front side and .004 backside--no more pulsation through the pedal, no vibration through the wheel. They took photos, etc and clearly knew what they were doing. I had spoken earlier in the week with a local outfit in So Cal called Porterfield racing, they deal specifically with brakes in racing applications. They backed up the blanchard grinding process as a great way to go verses throwing on a set of Hawk Blue pads to clean up the rotors. Spoke with Rick at Baer also and will be filling him in tomorrow as he was curious how this would work.

I can't find my pyrometer guage---but I could swear that the RF disc is running warmer than the LF---anyone else run into this?

Doug

[DFRESH]

Place that did the grinding was "Rimco" in Santa Ana--