HELP!!! 1969 camaro suspension nightmare

[CamaroBigBlock]

Hello guys, I need your help. I have a 1969 Camaro with a big block. I upgraded the front suspension since it was missing, broken, or worn out. I put Upper and lower Heidts control arms, QA1 coil-overs, Hotchkis sway bar and unsteer power rack. I have been having this problem for some time and no-one can figure this out.
The car aligns fine to spec. drive it a few 100 yard making a few turns and the car toes in real bad and changes the camber real far postive. We have removed, checked and re-installed all components....even swapping to s spring instead of coil-over.
We have taken it to a few places and all the want to do is promote the product they sell. I believe none of these companies are cheap or inferior to other companies. I just want the car to drive. When I talk to unisteer they blame it on the control arms. I am starting to believe it something in the power rack but not sure why. PLEASE HELP!!! I am sooooo sick of checking and re-checking the front suspension. Im running out of patients, and money
Thanks

[Vegas69]

Sounds like a change in ride height to me. I just don't see how your camber is going to change otherwise. You must make your alignment adjustments at NORMAL ride height if you expect it to be accurate.

[CamaroBigBlock]

the alignment is done at ride height and set up about 1" lower than factory. nothing crazy. I have no idea what is causing this

[mfain]

You might try reading pages 3 and 4 of the article at the link below -- the part about the relationship of the upper and lower control arms and the tie rods. The tie rods need to be on a line from the outer pivot point (at the steering arm) and the instant center (the angle formed by the control arms -- see photo in the article). The length of the tie rod from the end of the rack to the steering arm is also described. If you vary much from these parameters, you will get toe in or toe out (bumpsteer) with ride height change, as Todd suggests. On the other hand, you can't change camber without a ride height change or steering input (caused by caster) unless something moves in one of the control arm pivot points (inner or outer). A change in camber would probably cause a change in toe. I think Todd is on the right track.. Even a small ride height change can produce big changes if the basic geometry is not right. Hope this helps.

Pappy

http://www.circletrack.com/chassiste..._tie_rods.html

[Vegas69]

Good stuff Pappy. I'd measure your ride height now, take it for a drive and measure it a few times to see if it's not settling into the same position.(Make sure you are on level pavement) That's one problem that is likely caused by control arm bushings or even a leaf spring bushing out back. Do you have a bumpsteer problem? Does your car dart one way or the other when you hit a dip in the road? It's very possible that your rack is not mounted in the correct position or the rack is the wrong size as pointed out inthe article. You could remove your springs and shocks, and run your suspension through it's normal articulation recording your actual bump steer. Then makek adjustments and get it where it's happy. Unfortunately, aftermarket parts aren't always engineered to the level we desire OR it's installed incorrectly.

[dhutton]

Get yourself a bumpsteer gauge. Speedway sells one for $170. Given that you have been fighting this for over a year it will be money well spent.

Don

[CamaroBigBlock]

the ride height does not change. I think its actually the tie rods that are pushing the toe in. I can see the tie rod joints that goes through the knuckle go from strait up to almost 30 degrees out. I think the outer tie rods that go through the knuckle is binding. If is shake the steering wheel back and forth it will settle back to spec. I am going to go with something else on the outer tie rods....maybe heim joints

[mfain]

Pictures?

[CamaroBigBlock]

I will have to take a few. The article seems to explain the problem im having....related to bumpsteer. Im not sure if it would be bump out or bump in. I may have to measure the intersection point.

[mfain]

Another thought. The way you describe the outer tie rod end "twisting", it sounds like the steering arm and the rack are not operating in the same plane of motion. A rack that is in the same the plane of motion of the steering arm will not "twist" the tie rod as the vehicle is steered left and right. You might want to put the car on jack stands (under the lower control arms so the suspension geometry stays near that at ride height) and turn the steering wheel back an forth and see what is causing the tie rod end to twist away from vertical.

Pappy