Question about brake set up!

[6camaro9]

I recently install a baer 4 wheel disc brake kit on my 69 camaro, and now I am getting ready to install a DSE brake booster and new lines. The first question that i have is which kind of brake line do you guys prefer stainless or OEM steel. Second question is do I need to re install the factory prop valve that mounts under the master cylinder. I currently am running the baer adjustable prop valve and the factory prop valve. Baer said to get rid of the factory one and just put a T in front brake lines. This is all new to me so I wanted to get your opinions. Thanks for any Help.

Richard

[SLO_Z28]

Stainless lines are hard to fab, and prone to leak if not flared 100% right, and there is no performance benefit to running them, only aesthetic.

The factory prop valve for a disc/drum car will have a "residual valve" in it that will hold a slight amount of pressure on the calipers, this will cause disc brakes to drag slightly so it is not needed.

[Apogee]

You're in West Virginia, so the benefit to stainless steel hard lines is corrosion resistance and aesthetics, however my choice would be copper/nickel tubing over either stainless or steel Bundy tubing. You would have to actually work at it to make a bad flare with Cu/Ni tubing, it bends easily without any special tools and it will polish up to a nice sheen if you want it to with a little effort, although it will have a bronze tint to it due to the alloy.

You should abosolutely not be running two proportioning valves in any given circuit...but there's a lot of confusion between combination valves, proportioning valves and distribution blocks, so are you sure yours was a factory disc/drum or disc/disc proportioning valve depending on your application?

A tee in the front circuit and adjustable prop valve is about the simplest you can plumb your brake system, but it is far from the only way to do it.

Tobin
KORE3

[orangevert]

Im at the same stage and am watching closely.

If you find any pictures I could use them.

Thanks kirk

[Track Junky]

Run the rear brake line from the MC into the proportioning valve and then to the rear brakes. Run the front lines out of the MC straight to your front brakes. No need for a distribution block. That is one option.

Other option is.... I forget who, but they carry a distribution block which will allow you to run the 4 wheel after market brakes and also allow you to tie the low brake fluid sender to it.

I'm sure someone else will chime in that has used it. If not I will make a call to a friend of mine who is using it and get you the info

[Apogee]

I'm not sure which one Junky is referring to as I don't know of any with low fluid sensors since those are typically in the master cylinder reservoir, however there are several distribution blocks on the market with built-in adjustable proportioning valves and a pressure sensor port. The pressure switches used on these setups do just that, sense pressure, and could be used to activate tail lights in an application without an electro-mechanical pedal switch, although there was a pretty decent thread recently that makes a pretty strong argument for the reliability of the pedal switches over the pressure switch.

Wilwood #260-11179

Summit #SUM-G3910

SSBC #A0730

Tobin
KORE3

[Track Junky]

Sorry Tobin, the Apogee name threw me off and I wasn't paying attention. Didn't realize it was you in the previous post. You know a hell of alot more than I do about brake set up so I'm sure you will get OP squared away.

Just to clarify once again, I am running from the MC to the proportioning valve, and then out of the proportioning valve to the rear brakes. For the front I am running from the MC directly to the front brakes. My low fluid sensor? is disconnected.

My buddy John Sevilla is using a distribution block with his brake set up, has his brake sensor connected, and I cant remember if he is running a proportioning valve. I'll have to call him tonight when I get home from work for more details.

[intocarss]

I'm no brake expert ..here's how did mine when i got rid of the OEM PV

T fitting for front brake lines (note: front brake line on mine runs from master through a line lock then to the T fitting )

Adj pv for rear brakes

[SLO_Z28]

Originally Posted by Apogee

You would have to actually work at it to make a bad flare with Cu/Ni tubing, it bends easily without any special tools and it will polish up to a nice sheen if you want it to with a little effort, although it will have a bronze tint to it due to the alloy.

^This. It actually has a nice look to it when polished, wish I had pictures.