...

Go Back   Lateral-g Forums > Technical Discussions > Chassis and Suspension
User Name
Password



Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 11-01-2012, 06:18 AM
Stg1Regal's Avatar
Stg1Regal Stg1Regal is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 49
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default Pro and Cons of a 1.25" Rear Swaybar

Been snooping around looking at front and rear sway bars...

Found a BIG rear one... 1.25" ... Could this be used in the Pro-touring arena or just drag racing?

If so what would be matched for a front swaybar.

Currently I have Grand National front and rear swaybars on my 82 Regal with poly busings in the arms front and rear.

Plan on stepping up the suspension to the better tubular designed trailing arms that do articulate on the rear, and up front, for the taller balljoints , correct uppers.

Just curious if I could use that rear swaybar.

ALso I will be stepping up to 17" tires and rims, wide as I can stuffed in all 4 corners.

thanks
__________________
CHRIS REED
Vice Director of the Indiana Chapter Buick GSCA Club
"STG1RGL"
82 Regal (in 87 sheetmetal) w/Buick Big Block 455 ( R.I.P lost in my garage fire 01/09/14)
www.cardomain.com/id/stg1regal
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 11-01-2012, 09:30 AM
ccracin's Avatar
ccracin ccracin is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Rostraver, PA
Posts: 2,077
Thanks: 0
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Default

Chris,

Unfortunately, that is a tough question to answer. Swaybars are just a piece of the chassis tuning puzzle. The size needed is based on the rest of your suspension and handling characteristics. There are many schools of thought and if you ask 10 people this question most likely you will get 20 answers or more. Here is my hit list when looking at this. I want the softest springs possible in the vehicle that will hold the vehicle at ride height. After that it is about roll angle. How much do you want the body to roll? You want the front and rear to be balanced. That means you want the front roll angle to be as close to the same as the rear roll angle as possible. This is where the sway bars come in. You can then limit the body roll with the bars while keeping the springs compliant. This will allow the vehicle to handle humps and bumps better than a stiffer sprung vehicle. It's then about compromise. If you cannot maintain the roll angle you want with a reasonable sized bar, you then have to increase your spring rates and start the testing process over. After you get the major characteristics close to where you want them, then you can fine tune with the shock package.

I know this didn't answer your question, and it was not supposed to. I just wanted to convey that the suspension is a system and should be treated as such. Just throwing a bigger sway bar on may do quite a bit more damage to to your handling than you think.

I would suggest picking up the book "Chassis Engineering" by Herb Adams. Read it 10 times or until you get the concepts he discusses. It won't make you a chassis expert, but will help you make better decisions on your part choices.

Good luck!
__________________
Chad
Instagram - @cctek
https://https://www.facebook.com/CCTek

68 Chevy Pickup Project
Build Thread: https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=7505

THANKS TO: A&M Machine and Fabrication, CCTek (http://www.candctek.com), Hermance Design(www.hermancedesign.com), Paradise Road Rod & Custom, Harry Opfer Welding, Wegner Automotive Research, Clayton Machine Works
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 06-06-2013, 06:47 PM
Buick Grand National Guy Buick Grand National Guy is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Albemarle, NC
Posts: 31
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

You probably have a drag bar but it really depends on the length of the arm! Closer arm it to the bar, the stiffer the setup will be. Shoot me your e-mail and I will send you a PDF file with info on available chassis-mounted rear sway bars. File includes torsion capacity (lb/in) of many of the sway bars.
Conrad
__________________
Original owner of 1974 Z28. Ordered car with 4 speed, LT, Air Conditioning. Numbers matching car. Now equipped with Edelbrock Pro Flow fuel injection, 96 Zette Wheels, B-Car front disk, WS6 rear disk.

Also original owner of much-modified 1984 Grand National. Ridetech front & Detroit Speed rear control arms/sway bars Ridetech 3-way coil overs. Champion aluminum heads & intake. Comp roller hydraulic cam. CF hood, fiberglass bumpers. Baer 6P (2-piece rotors) 14" front & 13" rear brakes.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 06-07-2013, 08:07 AM
hp2 hp2 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Colorado
Posts: 80
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Thats big. Is it tubular or solid? If tubular, whats its wall thickness? Where does it connect, as this impacts its applied rate.

To decide if it would work, you would need to know front/rear weigth bias of your car to determine the amount of roll couple required for balance. Roll couple is determined by front spring and sway bar rates and rear spring and sway bar rates determined as a percentage of the roll couple. BTW, the roll couple is not a direct percentage of weight bias either. So there is a bunch of math required to figure it all out, after you figure out weight distribution.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 06-07-2013, 11:00 AM
Buick Grand National Guy Buick Grand National Guy is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Albemarle, NC
Posts: 31
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

I have attached a .PDF file containing most of the chassis-mount rear swaybars for G-Bodys.
Conrad
Attached Images
File Type: pdf Rear Sway Bar Database-Rev 6-5-2013-PDF.pdf (54.5 KB, 13 views)
__________________
Original owner of 1974 Z28. Ordered car with 4 speed, LT, Air Conditioning. Numbers matching car. Now equipped with Edelbrock Pro Flow fuel injection, 96 Zette Wheels, B-Car front disk, WS6 rear disk.

Also original owner of much-modified 1984 Grand National. Ridetech front & Detroit Speed rear control arms/sway bars Ridetech 3-way coil overs. Champion aluminum heads & intake. Comp roller hydraulic cam. CF hood, fiberglass bumpers. Baer 6P (2-piece rotors) 14" front & 13" rear brakes.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 06-08-2013, 12:10 AM
Zspoiler's Avatar
Zspoiler Zspoiler is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Federal Way,WA
Posts: 169
Thanks: 0
Thanked 8 Times in 8 Posts
Default Pro and cons of 1:25 rear anti -sway bar

What size front bar do you have? Do you want the car to handle ? Because road racing and drag racing are two diffrent animals.Everything needs to match up. I have both a 1979 Z-28 Camaro ,and a 1981 El Camino SS. Both are pro touring cars so they are similar.Both have big Bars on them. But if I wanted to drag race I would have to put on a small front or no sway bar.With no rear bar.Because you want the nose to rise and the rear end to squat to get the most traction to the rear wheels
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 06-13-2013, 04:43 PM
Chassisworks Chassisworks is offline
Supporting Vendor
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 312
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Chris,
If it's the Chassisworks 1.25" rear ARB it's really designed for drag racing only. It's a solid bar with a 6.70" lever length. It's designed for keeping cars flat when launching on slicks with up to about 2000 hp. Not to say you couldn't turn the center down to get the rate you need.
Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 01:14 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright Lateral-g.net