Lowered Nova front tire clearance

[BBC71Nova]

Today after getting all the front suspension and such mocked up I ran my wheel and tire combo through the suspension travel to check clearances. You guessed it... I think I have some major issues.

The wheels are VWW 17" X 8" w/ 4 7/8" BS. Tires are 235/45-17. Front end is pretty low. Running the Ridetech tall drop spindles. Frontend is mocked up as if the QA1 ProCoil conversion shock was dead in the center of travel. This puts the crossmember at ~5" off the ground. Also have 1/4" of spacers in the upper control arm to get some amount of negative camber.

At this ride height I can move the tire left/right max amount and have no fender clearance issues. Note: inner fenders are not yet installed so that might eventually be an issue.

If I put the front LCA on the bumpstops I can hardly turn the wheel before the tire gets into the fenders. The front wheel hits the fender while turning right when there is 3" before the inner tire hits the subframe. Since I can't install tie-rods due to another problem I really have no way of knowing how far to simulate a turn before it would be on the limiters.

Here are some pics.




I didn't expect clearance issues with the front given the relatively small wheel and tire combo I went with. There are other 3rd gen Novas running similar backspace that are even lower. So I'm not sure what the issue here is. Doesn't look like there is an easy or cheap fix that I can see.

I dropped a plumb-bob down from the fender edge at the spindle centerline and the upper rim edge is 1 7/8" inset at rideheight. Do you other Nova guys have similar measurement? Wondering if my track width is wider somehow? Maybe my brake pkg?

Thanks!

[Knaller]

I run a similar ride height and tires with the same issues. I had to rise the wheel opening in the fender 2" up. My front tires are 17x8.5 with 5.3 BS. For a test i put the rears on the front. 17x10 with 6.3 BS. Here is a pic in my build thread (without motor/trans). https://lateral-g.net/forums/show...t=36343&page=4 Scroll down to the last pics. I think you have to go with more BS. I have no subframe/sway bar issues even with the 6.3 BS rims.

[rchaskin]

Ditto on backspace.

My car looks about as low as yours.
I have DSE 2" drop with their LCAs which drop another 3\4".

I run a 17x8 with 5.25" bs, and run a 245\45\17.
No rubbing. Normal driving or autocross.

Randy

[BBC71Nova]

Thanks guys. Unfortunately the VWW V40 wheel is limited to the 4 7/8" backspace I have. Generally the limit is 4 3/4" but I had them take the centers out as far as they could before they starting stepping out over the lip.

I love the wheels and would like to come up with another solution if possible. I guess I might could mill the backs of the wheel mounting surface. I can't imagine that would yield much safely though.

I wished I knew how much these Wilwood brakes push the hub out. I've read online over the years anywhere between 3/4" and 3/16". Recent info suggests the 3/16" is more accurate.

I think splitting the fender edge and reworking the inner to match might be worthwhile. Couple that with more camber and slight change in ride height might be my only options as long as I want to use these wheels.

[craig510]

Just roll the inner fender lip up and pull the lip out as much as possible. The paint will likely split, that is why you always want to fit the wheels/tires before paint. As long as there are no sharp edges, and the tires only rub occasionally, it is not a real issue. Any sharp edges will cut the tire and ruin them quickly.

Some people have luck heating the paint carefully with a heat gun before rolling the lips, but I have never had any luck not cracking the paint. I have not used one of the fancy tools, just start the roll with a small adjustable wrench and work it up, then finish with a hammer and dolly, a couple of layers of blue tape keeps the paint from looking like crap, but it will not be perfect.

Edit: It looks like that is just e-coat, you are good to go.

[rchaskin]

Originally Posted by BBC71Nova

Thanks guys. Unfortunately the VWW V40 wheel is limited to the 4 7/8" backspace I have. Generally the limit is 4 3/4" but I had them take the centers out as far as they could before they starting stepping out over the lip.

I love the wheels and would like to come up with another solution if possible. I guess I might could mill the backs of the wheel mounting surface. I can't imagine that would yield much safely though.

I wished I knew how much these Wilwood brakes push the hub out. I've read online over the years anywhere between 3/4" and 3/16". Recent info suggests the 3/16" is more accurate.

I think splitting the fender edge and reworking the inner to match might be worthwhile. Couple that with more camber and slight change in ride height might be my only options as long as I want to use these wheels.

That was one reason I did not use those wheels. I think they are my favorite wheel in the road racing style.

I also run 1 full degree of negative camber as well. The G-Mod will also keep the wheel travelling away from the fender lip.

Good Luck!!

Or you could have Hooooooolihan stretch those fenders!!!!

[BBC71Nova]

Is the G- mod necessary or recommended with the tall spindles? I thought I read something somewhere that convinced me it wasn't a mod I should do.

[Knaller]

From what i know no Guldstrand mod with tall spindles. What you can do is use offset shafts in the UCAs to get more caster. But that will not help you...even with the steering arm issues. Thats the reason i didn't go with dropped spindles. Short steering arm will help a little when you use spacer too. As mentioned more camber will help. You're not much off with fitment with problems only at full droop. Raising the fender lip is may not needed, i angled the lip a bit outward on mine, that is not as much work and you gain some space too.

[rchaskin]

Originally Posted by BBC71Nova

Is the G- mod necessary or recommended with the tall spindles? I thought I read something somewhere that convinced me it wasn't a mod I should do.

Sorry, I didnt know your setup. You dont do the G-Mod with tall spindles.
The tall spindles do the same thing for the added negative camber when the suspension goes into compression.