Centerlock Wheels

[1Bad68Cat]

Hello All,

I am looking into getting new wheels for my 67 cougar. I plan to get centerlock type wheels strictly for the looks, but was wondering if there are any issues I should be concerned about (maintenance, stripped center spud?, etc) that maybe I should just stick to a traditional attachment. I am typically a function over form guy, but really like the look of the centerlocks. What are the PT faithful's opinions?

Robert

[Forgeline Wheel]

Originally Posted by 1Bad68Cat

Hello All,

I am looking into getting new wheels for my 67 cougar. I plan to get centerlock type wheels strictly for the looks, but was wondering if there are any issues I should be concerned about (maintenance, stripped center spud?, etc) that maybe I should just stick to a traditional attachment. I am typically a function over form guy, but really like the look of the centerlocks. What are the PT faithful's opinions?

Robert

Hi Robert,

Thanks for considering Forgeline products!

Typically there are 2 legitimate tradeoffs that customers should consider with the centerlock conversions:

1. They add about 5 lbs of unsprung mass to each corner. Fortunately, this is mass concentrated at the hub in the very center of the wheel, so it is not as detrimental as would be 5 lbs at the outside of wheel. But it is an extra 5 lbs nevertheless.
2. There is extra specialized hardware involved with getting your wheels on and off. Specifically three things: the adapter for the Flush Loc center cap, the adapter for the center lock nut itself, and the big two foot long breaker bar that you need to generate enough torque to loosen (and tighten) the main center locking nut. Plus, if you happen to opt for the GT style nut (as opposed to the hex nut), then you have yet another adapter (to adapt the hex tool to the GT nut). So potentially four extra pieces of hardware, in the case of the GT nut. And you pretty much need to take these tools with you wherever you go, because without them, you can't remove your wheels, in the event of a flat tire or some other problem.

And of course, it is fairly important to keep the center lock nuts greased. The aluminum nut and metal adapter are similar enough materials, and the 300 lb-ft of torque is great enough, that there is a chance for galling. And if galling occurs, then it makes it really hard to get the nut back off.

[1Bad68Cat]

Originally Posted by Forgeline Wheel

Hi Robert,

Thanks for considering Forgeline products!

Typically there are 2 legitimate tradeoffs that customers should consider with the centerlock conversions:

1. They add about 5 lbs of unsprung mass to each corner. Fortunately, this is mass concentrated at the hub in the very center of the wheel, so it is not as detrimental as would be 5 lbs at the outside of wheel. But it is an extra 5 lbs nevertheless.
2. There is extra specialized hardware involved with getting your wheels on and off. Specifically three things: the adapter for the Flush Loc center cap, the adapter for the center lock nut itself, and the big two foot long breaker bar that you need to generate enough torque to loosen (and tighten) the main center locking nut. Plus, if you happen to opt for the GT style nut (as opposed to the hex nut), then you have yet another adapter (to adapt the hex tool to the GT nut). So potentially four extra pieces of hardware, in the case of the GT nut. And you pretty much need to take these tools with you wherever you go, because without them, you can't remove your wheels, in the event of a flat tire or some other problem.

And of course, it is fairly important to keep the center lock nuts greased. The aluminum nut and metal adapter are similar enough materials, and the 400 lb-ft of torque is great enough, that there is a chance for galling. And if galling occurs, then it makes it really hard to get the nut back off.

Thanks Mark for replying. I sent you a PM.

Robert