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  #11  
Old 11-11-2010, 02:42 PM
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MarkM66 MarkM66 is offline
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Originally Posted by JND View Post
You would be correct, range is 11.5-12.0-12.5. so looks like 12 is the sweet spot. i guess i still need to move the frame rails in 3" since the tires are 13.3 wide.

Do you have a rear sway bar?
I never put a sway bar on it. I don't have it anymore, and didn't drive it enough to know if it needed one or not.
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  #12  
Old 11-27-2010, 09:57 PM
okyankee okyankee is offline
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Originally Posted by MarkM66 View Post
I narrowed the frame on my '66 the same way. But I moved mine in 3" per side instead of 2" like Malitude. Which fit a 20x12 with a 335/30



i want to do the same on my 65 chevelle. is this the stock width rear end just with wheels with correct backspacing? thanks for any help.
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  #13  
Old 11-27-2010, 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by okyankee View Post
i want to do the same on my 65 chevelle. is this the stock width rear end just with wheels with correct backspacing? thanks for any help.
On Malitude it was a narrowed rear end, and I'd guess Mark did the same. If you minitub but keep the rear end stock width you end up with wheels with no depth to them. In other words, they'll have to have a lot of backspacing to be wide and still fit. If you narrow the rear you can get a more centered wheel offset which I think looks much better.



Jody
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Last edited by camcojb; 11-27-2010 at 10:21 PM.
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  #14  
Old 11-27-2010, 10:16 PM
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On Malitude it was a narrowed rear end, and I'd guess Mark did the same. If you minitub but keep the rear end stock width you end up with wheels with no depth to them.

Jody
then that calls for some rear end chopping. thanks for the help.
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  #15  
Old 11-27-2010, 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by camcojb View Post
On Malitude it was a narrowed rear end, and I'd guess Mark did the same. If you minitub but keep the rear end stock width you end up with wheels with no depth to them. In other words, they'll have to have a lot of backspacing to be wide and still fit. If you narrow the rear you can get a more centered wheel offset which I think looks much better.



Jody
btw, do you know how much per side to narrow the rear end?
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  #16  
Old 11-27-2010, 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by okyankee View Post
btw, do you know how much per side to narrow the rear end?
that would depend on wheel width and offset as well as tire size. Best thing to do is complete the frame and tub mods, get the wheel/tire combo, set them in place and measure for the rear width.
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Painless Performance for their wiring harness

Ron Davis Radiators for their radiator and fan assembly.
Baer Brakes for their front and rear brakes

Texas Speed and Performance for their 427 LS Stroker
American Powertrain for their ProFit Magnum T56 kit
Currie Enterprises for their 9" Third Member
Forgeline for their GF3 Wheels
McLeod Racing for their RXT street twin clutch
Ididit for their steering column
Holley for their EFI and engine parts
Lokar and Clayton Machine for their pedals and door and window handles
Morris Classic Concepts for their 3 point belts and side mirrors
Thermotec for their heat sleeve and sound deadening products
Restomod Air for their Tru Mod A/C kit
Mightymouse Solutions for their catch can
Magnaflow for their 3" exhaust system
Aeromotive for their dual Phantom fuel system
Vintage Air for their new Mid Mount LS front drive
Hydratech Braking for their hydroboost system
Borgeson for their stainless steering shaft and u joints
Eddie Motorsports for their hood and trunk hinges and misc parts
TMI Products for their seats, door panels, and dash pad
Rock Valley Antique Auto Parts for their stainless fuel tank
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  #17  
Old 11-27-2010, 10:38 PM
okyankee okyankee is offline
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Originally Posted by camcojb View Post
that would depend on wheel width and offset as well as tire size. Best thing to do is complete the frame and tub mods, get the wheel/tire combo, set them in place and measure for the rear width.
thanks. i know the wheels will be 20x12 for sure. that is as far as i got. thanks for the info.
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  #18  
Old 12-03-2010, 02:25 PM
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Default Thanks for the good info and pics

Great info, I love the pics.

Did either of you guys do this on a frame table?

@Mark, looks like you used boxed frame rails behind the rear axle body mounts. Is this 2"x4"?

Thanks, Josh
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  #19  
Old 12-03-2010, 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by BANKO View Post
Great info, I love the pics.

Did either of you guys do this on a frame table?

@Mark, looks like you used boxed frame rails behind the rear axle body mounts. Is this 2"x4"?

Thanks, Josh
No, just welded in some braces before cutting, and measured before welding.

That's just the factory frame in the back that I boxed.
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  #20  
Old 01-01-2011, 08:45 PM
tim65chevelle tim65chevelle is offline
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Default ben there doing that

I'm working on a 65 chevelle , 64&65 have very small provisions for tires (The frames are the same 64-67)1966&7 have a lot bigger wheel well.I took 2" out of each side of my frame( I notched it) replaced it with a 3/8 plate.You cant take out any more than 2" (upper spring perches are right there) I also had to move 2nd to last body mount.By notching frame instead of moving it. I was able to keep stock gas tank factory upper and lower bars.(no frame jig required. My wheel opening measure out to 13 3/4"now. 66-67 cars are wider so it would measure out more. I have a lot of pics . they are to big to send?(I'll try to make them smaller)Or maybe I could send them direct to your e-mail.(I'm not very computer savy)TIM I'm doing min tubs right now.(419)371-4955

Last edited by tim65chevelle; 01-03-2011 at 11:03 AM. Reason: trying to work on attachments (no opition to try again)
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