The Koul Tool is really only for people that don't have a nice way to cut this crappy hose (I personally am so 'over it' - this look is what I mean).... and you're right - it (Koul tool) does make it far easier if you can't get a nice cut on the end of your braided stuff. But the key is really just to have the vice jaws to hold the fitting --- and a nice clean cut... then you can save the cost of the extra "not really required" tool. I use the vice jaws for lots of other stuff... and the cutters etc can be used on other things as well... the Koul Tool is a one trick pony.
A BIG PS to the original poster.... IF you're using braided rubber hose for FUEL LINE ---- DON'T. If you have to go flexible -- use the teflon lined (ptfe) braided hose and then you'll only need one extra tool... the hand tool that installs the ferrel and spreads the braid out AFTER you install the sleeve. The PTFE hose will stand up to todays fuels and is also great for high pressure stuff like P/S etc. If you use rubber hose -- you're garage will forever stink like gasoline. Then you're wife gets pissy about your "stinky hot rod" -- and then she goes out and shops all day - thus reducing your tool account! Don't let this happen to you!
PPSS: The PTFE stuff is an extra little nasty hose to install a fitting on! If you cut this crappola with a cutoff tool -- it melts the PTFE -- then you can't get the fitting to go down into the liner... it's super snug fit! Any 'defects' or cuts in the end of the PTFE and you're "hosed" (pun intended). This is where that handy dandy XRP saw blade comes into play - cause it's super sharp and doesn't get hot and melt the liner.... JUST FYI is all.
For me the Koul tools really helped with the -4 and -6 hose ends. -8 and -10 I didn't really need them. For me it was worth the price of less swearing and saving my thumbs from being punctured more
It's (the braid) like 80 grit sandpaper if you accidentally touch ANYTHING that has a finish on it with the stuff! And those occasional barbs are just THE nastiest stuff ever!
I pressure test all my lines before installing them. I cap both ends with one end having a schrader valve. I pressure test the hose to 125 psi with shop air and dump it into my shop sink under water. If no bubbles it's good.
This has saved me a huge amount of time. I also pressure test all my tanks with less pressure before installing them.
It is much easier to fix the hoses and tanks before you fill them with oil or coolant.
I really was chuckling to myself while writing this - - thinking about the first time I made this stuff up.... and how my fingers hurt -- and the stripped fittings and the leaks and the....
Well you know.... this stuff is a total PITA if you're not "educated" about it!
I like your pressure testing.... but I just go one better.... I just don't build hoses and tanks that leak! Hey -- thinking of that -- I have a really really nice bridge in Manhattan I'm not using... CHEAP! Interested?
I like the idea of buffing the fittings but I like to take it one step further. I usually buy used fittings (poor man's budget), but sometimes I have to buy new and then I strip off the anodize. From there I sand them down to get rid of all factory defects (because they are far from perfect), usually stepping all the way down to 1000 grit paper, before I hit them on a buffer.
I think I have a thread on here with them. I'm gonna try to find it now
I found my original thread, but my work computer won't let me paste the link. Damn firewalls!
I strip the ALUMINUM fittings and buff them.... But not the cad plated steel versions used on PTFE or A/C hose. Those I just buff up.
To strip the aluminum fittings I dunk them in CRYSTAL DRANO....(sold at Lowes and Home Depot for about $3 a can) added to water in a smallish plastic bucket... I hang one at a time on a bent piece of welding rod... and then dip in clear water bucket to neutralize. Clean 'em off - dry 'em off and buff till you can see the food stuck between your teeth.
WARNING: The crystal drano has a wicked gassing off - DO NOT GET YOUR FACE ANYWHERE NEAR THIS STUFF.... I put the smallish bucket OUTSIDE on concrete wall -- use a 3' piece of welding rod -- and keep my distance and use latex rubber gloves...
When you get the mixture of Crystal drano and water "right" -- the fittings will actually BOIL... trust me -- these bad boys are stripped in SECONDS not minutes or hours or days.... This is a dunk - swish - check - another quicky dunk - and into the rinse bath. I use a clear plastic bucket so I can SEE the boiling action and see the anodizing coming off. Leave this in too long and you'll ruin the fitting.
Whats the next write up Greg? Great idea there on stripping fittings and buffing by the way. Wanna do write up on brake lines stainless steel of course and flaring poor mans budget or maybe something on wiring or any other subjects you want for us?Thanks again for sharing some knowledge ! Brandon
Brian Hobaugh SCCA National Tour June 2014
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Great idea there on stripping fittings and buffing by the way. Wanna do write up on brake lines stainless steel of course and flaring poor mans budget or maybe something on wiring or any other subjects you want for us?Thanks again for sharing some knowledge 
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