an fitting how to?

[BBC69Camaro]

I'm no expert but the below is what I found useful when I did my hoses and stainless hardline.

For stainless hose:

When I was about to do my AN fittings I found a number of threads about this brand of hose cutters. It worked really well for me making nice clean cuts:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-900040/


For AN fitting assembly on hose I had good luck with Koul Tools.


http://www.jegs.com/i/KOUL+tools/581/681/10002/-1

Made it a lot easier especially for the little hoses I had to make (couple -4 ones). I found the larger hoses easier to make but they make tools that go from -4 to -16. You can certainly do it without but if you have a lot of hose ends to assemble it makes for much faster assembly especially if you don't assemble AN fittings all the time like me.

There is a couple good videos on Youtube of hose end assembly. This one from Earl's I found good:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aDSozy6MZto

Another from V8TV
http://www.streetfire.net/video/s71-...8tv_683206.htm

Like Greg said don't forget to lube the hose and use anti-sieze on the threads of all fittings, helps a lot.


For Hardline:
If you are planning on doing stainless hardline I would look into Rigid's line of Tubing benders and flaring tools:

Flaring Tool:
http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/458R-Rat...l/EN/index.htm

Benders:
http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/Lever-Benders

You will also want a couple cutters. A normal sized one for cutting the hardline off the car and a compact one for cutting to fit on the car, or you can get away with one compact one but you definitely will find yourself wanting to cut a line on the car.

You will also want to champher and polish all ends that you cut in the hardline especially if its stainless annealed (probably not needed for alum) since the stainless likes to split on the flairs.

Hope this helps!

[GregWeld]

Okay here we go.....

Get yourself some Aluminum jaws for your vise!




AND some way to cut cleanly..... MOST IMPORTANT!!!!


Saw and holder from XRP....




Or giant cutters -- I hate these because they deform the hose but they do work...






Or the way MOST people do this - by taping the hose and using an air cut off saw.... USE THE THIN 1/6" blades!





Make a NICE CLEAN CUT!!





Insert the hose ferrel or whatever the heck it's called into your jaws of life...







Insert the hose with a push and TWIST..... until it seats just below the threads!









Re-install in the vise...






LUBE THE HOSE!!







Anti seize the fitting!! Don't forget this part -- aluminum GALLS real easy... and the fittings are EXPENSIVE! LOL







PUSH DOWN WHILE GETTING THREAD STARTED!






Tighten it up....






DUUUUUDE!! <spicolli style> You're done!!

[BBC69Camaro]

Originally Posted by GregWeld

Re-install in the vise...

Nice write up!

I might add I had good luck taping the top of the hose right at the female fitting in this pic. That way if when you are screwing in the other side of fitting if the hose pushes out you can tell. Saves some time redoing hose ends that leak because they aren't seated all the way.

[GregWeld]

Originally Posted by BBC69Camaro

You will also want a couple cutters. A normal sized one for cutting the hardline off the car and a compact one for cutting to fit on the car, or you can get away with one compact one but you definitely will find yourself wanting to cut a line on the car.

You will also want to champher and polish all ends that you cut in the hardline especially if its stainless annealed (probably not needed for alum) since the stainless likes to split on the flairs.

Hope this helps!

IF you're going to cut SS TUBING ----- you need to get SS tubing cutter. Ridgid makes one. CUTTING SS TUBING WITH A CUTTER WILL MAKE THE END WORK HARDEN.... and will most likely cause the end to split or crack.

I re-anneal the ends with my handy dandy little (LOL) Burr King** (not BURGER KING) .... until they're "blued"..... otherwise I use my BODY SAW and a fine tooth blade and finish it up on the Burr King. On SS tubing use a cut off wheel in an air tool -- IF -- BIG IF -- You can cut straight and clean.

** Definition of a BURR KING --- <NOT BURGER KING>..... that flat thing in the background there with the rough gritty paper on it and it spins and whirrs round and round and makes your knuckles bleed....

[BBC69Camaro]

Good point I left that out, I had access to a Burr-King for awhile at school, really miss it. Wish they weren't so expensive $$$, love to have one in my garage.

[brans72]

Awesome write up Greg and Big Thanks since this post will hopefully help alot of people out!!!!! Brandon

[Vegas69]

That's why I use the nylon hose. Easy to cut and lighter. Power steering hoses are my only braided.

[Northeast Rod Run]

Originally Posted by BBC69Camaro

For AN fitting assembly on hose I had good luck with Koul Tools.


http://www.jegs.com/i/KOUL+tools/581/681/10002/-1

Made it a lot easier especially for the little hoses I had to make (couple -4 ones). I found the larger hoses easier to make but they make tools that go from -4 to -16. You can certainly do it without but if you have a lot of hose ends to assemble it makes for much faster assembly especially if you don't assemble AN fittings all the time like me.

First time I used one of these I borrowed it from a friend last summer. I will NEVER EVER make a line without using one again. I could not believe how easy it was using the tool

Disclaimer: This post was written by a real customer. No one was paid, and no actors were used in the making of this post

[GregWeld]

The Koul Tool is really only for people that don't have a nice way to cut this crappy hose (I personally am so 'over it' - this look is what I mean).... and you're right - it (Koul tool) does make it far easier if you can't get a nice cut on the end of your braided stuff. But the key is really just to have the vice jaws to hold the fitting --- and a nice clean cut... then you can save the cost of the extra "not really required" tool. I use the vice jaws for lots of other stuff... and the cutters etc can be used on other things as well... the Koul Tool is a one trick pony.



A BIG PS to the original poster.... IF you're using braided rubber hose for FUEL LINE ---- DON'T. If you have to go flexible -- use the teflon lined (ptfe) braided hose and then you'll only need one extra tool... the hand tool that installs the ferrel and spreads the braid out AFTER you install the sleeve. The PTFE hose will stand up to todays fuels and is also great for high pressure stuff like P/S etc. If you use rubber hose -- you're garage will forever stink like gasoline. Then you're wife gets pissy about your "stinky hot rod" -- and then she goes out and shops all day - thus reducing your tool account! Don't let this happen to you!

PPSS: The PTFE stuff is an extra little nasty hose to install a fitting on! If you cut this crappola with a cutoff tool -- it melts the PTFE -- then you can't get the fitting to go down into the liner... it's super snug fit! Any 'defects' or cuts in the end of the PTFE and you're "hosed" (pun intended). This is where that handy dandy XRP saw blade comes into play - cause it's super sharp and doesn't get hot and melt the liner.... JUST FYI is all.

[BBC69Camaro]

For me the Koul tools really helped with the -4 and -6 hose ends. -8 and -10 I didn't really need them. For me it was worth the price of less swearing and saving my thumbs from being punctured more