New Shop Design help needed

[SSLance]

Originally Posted by Vegas69

That right there is exactly why my shop with have a 2 post.

Yeah, but the drive on makes other things so much easier like wheel alignments, corner balancing, ride height changes, oil changes etc...

Originally Posted by shelteredV

Ultimately for a home based shop, or small biz, having both style lifts would be awesome, although costly and unlikely. The asymmetrical lift I have is great, but I would love to have a 4 post with rolling 3 ton hydraulic jacks for the ultimate in versatility. Just my .02

Yup yup...

Originally Posted by DBasher

For the Jeep or Toyota, Uncle Rico?

Lance, looks like a great opportunity to install some V bands on the exhaust, you know you’ll be back in there at some point.

I hear ya... You know the exhaust from the X-pipe back is still the same that was on the car when I bought it over 10 years ago... It's well past time for an upgrade on it in many ways, V-bands included.

Originally Posted by camcojb

Move the jack up so it rides on the top of the lift where the tires go. Works way better that way and gives full expansion at all heights.

That would be a 4" jump up on the whole jack assembly, pretty sure the pads wouldn't go under the frame at their lowest point then. Interesting out of the box thought though.

Keep in mind I'm still very happy with this lift. I knew I'd have to find a way around this very issue before I ever bought it. It is still WAY better than laying on the ground trying to do this stuff...

I really think the answer is very simply just shorter jack stands. I'm debating on either modifying mine or trying one of these sets.



10.71" - 15.6" tall



13" - 21" tall

Most stands (including mine) start at about 15" high

[GregWeld]

I have a set of the "big reds" --- they're real lightweight and a very small base.

I keep them in the trailer and use them more as a "chalk" to check the floor jack if changing a tire. They're "okay" but that small base -- under anything at an angle - that's dangerous. Dangerous enough doing that anyway.

[SSLance]

These are a 3 ton version and the base is a bit bigger 7.1" x 7.1" with a lowest height of 9.5"

https://www.gmdesolutions.com/item-d...type=equipment



Like Greg said, I would always back these up with the rolling chassis jack up near the middle of the car like in the pics above. Between the two the car is VERY steady on the lift as is.

These frames just aren't stiff enough to lift the whole back (or front) of the car from the middle like your average tube frame race car...

[camcojb]

Originally Posted by SSLance

Y




That would be a 4" jump up on the whole jack assembly, pretty sure the pads wouldn't go under the frame at their lowest point then. Interesting out of the box thought though.

I don't know that it's out of the box thinking, I think it's supposed to be on top lol. That way you can extend the arms even with it all the way down. Mine is only 3 1/4" above the rails with the pads on. If your frame is that low then you're a lot lower than I am or any car I've had on my lift.




NEVER MIND.... looks like your jack is different than mine.

[GregWeld]

Originally Posted by camcojb

NEVER MIND.... looks like your jack is different than mine.

One of you is #upsidedownandbackward

LOL

[65_LS1_T56]

Originally Posted by SSLance

13" - 21" tall

Most stands (including mine) start at about 15" high

I have a set of four of these. They're very nice and 3 points do make a plane, not that you are on an uneven surface, but they are very stable.