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  #1  
Old 05-01-2008, 07:15 PM
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monza monza is offline
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Default Baer Brakes w/ Hydratech fluid change Help Please

Hey

I have a couple of track days tomorrow and Saturday in Fuel. Track prepping my car I planed on swapping out the old brake fluid.

Brakes Baer 6S with a hydratech, I read all the info I could regarding bleeding draining old fluid from the said brakes and assumed it was fairly straight forward brake bleeding job.

Drained both bleeders on each caliber, every thing just seemed odd and not much fluid movement, took forever to actually drain most of the older brake fluid? Did not really get a good feeling about the whole procedure. Peddle feel afterwards seems a bit softer even after start up. Have not gone for a test drive yet, still on stands. That will happen later tonight after my track school class.

Any after the fact tips or advice. From what I read I did not have to do anything with the Hydratech? Is that correct? My first time working with a Hydratech and a bit apprehensive about how it went. That and the fact I'm driving on the track I thought I'd ask for some help.

Beside that I can't wait to get FueL on the track, advanced track school tomorrow and my first track group day Saturday assuming I get this all buttoned up and "brakes~ full speed ahead"

Thanks!
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Last edited by monza; 05-01-2008 at 11:02 PM.
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Old 05-02-2008, 08:54 AM
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Payton King Payton King is offline
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Default Everyone has their preference

I would make it a 2 person job. I would pump the pedal few times and hold it down while someone else opened the bleeders. Keep up with the fluid level in the resevior. After doing this a few times add to it before it is dry. In my opinion you do not want to drain the system completely and then add fluid. You want to bleed out the old fluid while adding the new. You should be able to tell when nothing but new fluid is coming out and move to the next wheel.
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Old 05-02-2008, 10:05 AM
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XcYZ XcYZ is offline
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If you have a Mityvac, it will only take minutes to replace all the fluid in the system, just be sure not to suck the master cylinder dry.

As for the Hydratech assist unit, you don't have to do anything different.
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Old 05-02-2008, 04:40 PM
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monza monza is offline
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Default

Thanks for the replies... Payton that's exactly how I did just seemed so slow and such a small volume of fluid movement, soft peddle, I thought I was doing something wrong.
XcYZ, I think I'll pick up a Mityvac thanks for that tip and confirming that I did not have to do anything different because of the Hydratech.

I test drove last night and it was rock solid braking. Took it to the track today I'll post how that went in a new thread....
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FUeL 69 Camaro RS
68 Corvair coupe
65 Impala SS
65 Corvair convert
64 Corvair Rampside
62 Corvair Greenbrier

http://www.sourceboards.com/
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Old 05-07-2008, 09:14 AM
Apogee Apogee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monza View Post
I test drove last night and it was rock solid braking. Took it to the track today I'll post how that went in a new thread....
Rock solid braking is good. If you choose to run ATE brake fluid, they make it in Blue and Amber (DOT) but it's the same fluid other than color. You can alternate between the two when flushing your system so that you know exactly when the old fluid is fully bleed out. Makes it super easy to know and keeps you from wasting a lot of expensive brake fluid.

Tobin
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