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  #1  
Old 11-27-2008, 09:24 PM
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When I read thru the Accel Dual-sync instructions it wants you to bring it to TDC then phase the distributor for the cam and crank LED's. Then lock it

Then turn the motor to 23-30 BTDC and then phase the rotor. If I follow these instructions then how the heck do you turn the motor backwards? I turn the motor on the balancer bolt so if I turn it backwards the bolt would back out? Like before I'm missing something here? confused. Help.
Jegs and summit sell the Proform tool that would work but there must be simpler way. I cannot get to the flywheel to turn it, the scattershield is in the way.
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  #2  
Old 11-27-2008, 10:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedugan View Post
When I read thru the Accel Dual-sync instructions it wants you to bring it to TDC then phase the distributor for the cam and crank LED's. Then lock it

Then turn the motor to 23-30 BTDC and then phase the rotor. If I follow these instructions then how the heck do you turn the motor backwards? I turn the motor on the balancer bolt so if I turn it backwards the bolt would back out? Like before I'm missing something here? confused. Help.
Jegs and summit sell the Proform tool that would work but there must be simpler way. I cannot get to the flywheel to turn it, the scattershield is in the way.
my instructions were for general distributor installs. To turn the engine backwards remove the plugs. If the harmonic balancer bolt is properly torqued it should not loosen without plugs.

Jody
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  #3  
Old 11-28-2008, 03:27 PM
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Thanks Jody that took care of that.

Car does not want to start so gotta start troubleshooting the issue.

Have 17 pounds of pressure at the fuel rail gauge. Why so low

Car does start and then dies when I spray some starter fluid in the throttle body. Car then dies in seconds.

Gotta go feed the kiddies and then get them ready for bed so guess I gotta wait till Saturday to get back on it. Ill figure it out this weekend. so close.
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  #4  
Old 11-28-2008, 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by thedugan View Post
Thanks Jody that took care of that.

Car does not want to start so gotta start troubleshooting the issue.

Have 17 pounds of pressure at the fuel rail gauge. Why so low

Car does start and then dies when I spray some starter fluid in the throttle body. Car then dies in seconds.

Gotta go feed the kiddies and then get them ready for bed so guess I gotta wait till Saturday to get back on it. Ill figure it out this weekend. so close.
it won't run with that low of pressure, so that's the first thing to figure out.

Jody
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SPECIAL THANKS TO:
Jacob Ehlers and Amsoil for the lubricants and degreasers for my 70 Chevelle project
Shannon at Modo Innovations for the cool billet DBW bracket
Roadster Shop for their Chevelle SPEC Chassis
Dakota Digital for their Chevelle HDX Gauge Package
Painless Performance for their wiring harness

Ron Davis Radiators for their radiator and fan assembly.
Baer Brakes for their front and rear brakes

Texas Speed and Performance for their 427 LS Stroker
American Powertrain for their ProFit Magnum T56 kit
Currie Enterprises for their 9" Third Member
Forgeline for their GF3 Wheels
McLeod Racing for their RXT street twin clutch
Ididit for their steering column
Holley for their EFI and engine parts
Lokar and Clayton Machine for their pedals and door and window handles
Morris Classic Concepts for their 3 point belts and side mirrors
Thermotec for their heat sleeve and sound deadening products
Restomod Air for their Tru Mod A/C kit
Mightymouse Solutions for their catch can
Magnaflow for their 3" exhaust system
Aeromotive for their dual Phantom fuel system
Vintage Air for their new Mid Mount LS front drive
Hydratech Braking for their hydroboost system
Borgeson for their stainless steering shaft and u joints
Eddie Motorsports for their hood and trunk hinges and misc parts
TMI Products for their seats, door panels, and dash pad
Rock Valley Antique Auto Parts for their stainless fuel tank
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  #5  
Old 11-28-2008, 04:42 PM
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Jody I'm running the aeromotive bypass regulator near the tank. PN 13101.
Return from the bypass back to the tank.
Im going to put a gauge on it to see what kind of pressure I get back there.

On the front of the motor I have the fuel lines coming in to the back of the motor and the front of the rails is capped.

So a returnless system

Ill get out there in the AM and start checking it out
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  #6  
Old 11-29-2008, 09:22 AM
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So reading about the regulator I have it comes from the factory set at 43psi so I'm ruling out checking on that.

I'm going to doublecheck the fuel filter flow and its rate but I'm guessing thats okay.

The fuel cooler I know was backwards and that was fixed.

I guess the gauge could be bad so Ill swap that out with a spare.

There could be air in the lines, would that effect it?

Im also going to start from scratch and make sure there is enough gas in the tank. I put 4 gallons in so it should be fine.

Gotta go do some errands, and help the wife get the christmas stuff out. So later today Ill get in the garage.

Not sure what else could be killing the fuel pressure but if anyone has any ideas let me know. 17 when it should be 43 is a problem
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  #7  
Old 11-29-2008, 09:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedugan View Post
So reading about the regulator I have it comes from the factory set at 43psi so I'm ruling out checking on that.

I'm going to doublecheck the fuel filter flow and its rate but I'm guessing thats okay.

The fuel cooler I know was backwards and that was fixed.

I guess the gauge could be bad so Ill swap that out with a spare.

There could be air in the lines, would that effect it?

Im also going to start from scratch and make sure there is enough gas in the tank. I put 4 gallons in so it should be fine.

Gotta go do some errands, and help the wife get the christmas stuff out. So later today Ill get in the garage.

Not sure what else could be killing the fuel pressure but if anyone has any ideas let me know. 17 when it should be 43 is a problem

if it's dead-headed there will be some air to bleed out but it should still show the proper pressure and it should still start. It may die a couple times briefly, but that's about it. You can also crack the line/fittings at the far end of the fuel rail and bleed the air out that way with the pump running; I've always just fired it up, let it die maybe once or twice briefly and then it's done.

Never trust the factory adjustments, the first thing to check is that adjustment. Loosen the locknut and screw the allen stud clockwise into the regulator which should raise the fuel pressure. Hopefully all that's wrong is that it is set too far out from the factory.

If adjusting it down doesn't raise the fuel pressure then you'll have to look elsewhere. After re-reading your description it's also possible that the pressure gauge is defective and your dieing is just the bleeding of the air out of the system, or you need to do some tuning to get it to idle (proper fuel map numbers, minimum throttle blade opening is too low, etc).

Jody
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PAST CAR PROJECTS

Like Lateral-G on Facebook!

Follow Lateral-G on Instagram!

SPECIAL THANKS TO:
Jacob Ehlers and Amsoil for the lubricants and degreasers for my 70 Chevelle project
Shannon at Modo Innovations for the cool billet DBW bracket
Roadster Shop for their Chevelle SPEC Chassis
Dakota Digital for their Chevelle HDX Gauge Package
Painless Performance for their wiring harness

Ron Davis Radiators for their radiator and fan assembly.
Baer Brakes for their front and rear brakes

Texas Speed and Performance for their 427 LS Stroker
American Powertrain for their ProFit Magnum T56 kit
Currie Enterprises for their 9" Third Member
Forgeline for their GF3 Wheels
McLeod Racing for their RXT street twin clutch
Ididit for their steering column
Holley for their EFI and engine parts
Lokar and Clayton Machine for their pedals and door and window handles
Morris Classic Concepts for their 3 point belts and side mirrors
Thermotec for their heat sleeve and sound deadening products
Restomod Air for their Tru Mod A/C kit
Mightymouse Solutions for their catch can
Magnaflow for their 3" exhaust system
Aeromotive for their dual Phantom fuel system
Vintage Air for their new Mid Mount LS front drive
Hydratech Braking for their hydroboost system
Borgeson for their stainless steering shaft and u joints
Eddie Motorsports for their hood and trunk hinges and misc parts
TMI Products for their seats, door panels, and dash pad
Rock Valley Antique Auto Parts for their stainless fuel tank

Last edited by camcojb; 11-29-2008 at 09:53 AM.
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