dual m/c and balance bar

[Payton King]

Since we are basing it off of the stock pedals. We need to drop the pivot point of the brake pedal down to get a straight shot at the masters. We could not move the masters up because of the cowl. The stock point is used for the clutch pedal and Jim made a new point for the brakes. Sounds funky but works like a charm. I am running 6:1 pedal ratio, 5/8 on front and 3/4 on the rear. Not standing on it but with a good amount of pressure, I developed 1200 psi on the front and 1100 psi on the back. Once I get the bias adjusted I thing the leg pressure is going to be the best I have had. 1200 psi is the max reccommended on a Wilwood caliper, so after I get the bias right and if I am generating too much pressure, I will size the masters up one step. Lots of trial and error but I am close to getting it nailed down.

[syborg tt]

Great thread guys

[Payton King]

If you call Wilwood they will tell you to get a 7/8's for a manual system. That is correct if you are using a tandem master. It will not work with duals and a ballance bar. Been there and tried that.

You are pushing 2 masters so you will need to split the leg pressure by 2. I have run a number of calculators on this and trial and error testing...how I arrived where I am now.

I have 1 inch, 7/8, 3/4 and 5/8 masters now in my possesion. LOL

With a 6:1 to 6.2:1 ratio, you are looking at 5/8 or 3/4 on front. Size the rear one step bigger( all of this depending on your calipers. If you are using SL6's and SL4's in the rear I am right on). That will get you close on the bias and use the ballance bar to tune from there.

My piston size is 1.62, 1.12, 1.12 on the front and 1.75, 1.75 on the rear with 13 inch rotors.

[GM Muscle]

thanks man. great pics. im just using the pbr calipers in the front and the factory late gm rears. ill pull down my factory pedal and stuff when i get the chance and see if i cant get it all mocked up. once again thanks for the pics and info

how far down would you say you had to move it? just guessing?

and do you have anyway that i could contact jim p?

[Payton King]

Caliper.

The distance he moved the clutch down had to do with getting a straight shot at the masters so the master push rod was not moving at an angle and loosing mechanical advatage. On mine it is about 1 to 1.5, I did not measure but it is close.

You never said if you were running a stock type clutch, hydrolic or if you car was an automatic. Anyway I am sure Jim would be happy to get you set up but I still think if I had it to do over I would get the Tilton pedals to work

Take a look here: http://www.tiltonracing.com/content....list2&id=4&m=b

I think it would be far easier to do this than the route I took. Take a look at the drawings as it has measurements. You will need to cut holes in your firewall, but you will need to do that anyway. If you do this you will need to remove the stock brace/pedal locator and fab up something else.

If you like mine I will get you Jim's number

[carbuff]

Originally Posted by Payton King

but I still think if I had it to do over I would get the Tilton pedals to work

Take a look here: http://www.tiltonracing.com/content....list2&id=4&m=b

I think it would be far easier to do this than the route I took. Take a look at the drawings as it has measurements. You will need to cut holes in your firewall, but you will need to do that anyway. If you do this you will need to remove the stock brace/pedal locator and fab up something else.

Is there anyone here that has actually done something like this: installed an aftermarket set of Tilton / Wilwood / etc pedals into their project, specifically a 1st or 2nd gen Camaro?

I would think this would be a nice way to go also, but I have no idea how one would go about mounting the pedals in a safe/secure enough way under the dash area. Other than the steering column mount, I don't remember any significant bracing to work from. And you can't simply mount them to the firewall, there would be entirely too much flex.

So I'm curious as to what people have for ideas on mounting a set of aftermarket pedals like this...

Thoughts?

[Payton King]

pretty stout piece. Just messing with mine I would imagine that you would need to take the stock brace out and fab up your mounting system and bracing. Should not be that difficult. Where it gets tight is the clutch and brake pedal drop straight down so the column would go in between those. It will be tight but it will work. Not sure how far over it is and what kind of room you have for the gas pedal but Matt made it work.

Matt Jones from AME did this on his 69 Camaro. There is a thread over at www.pro-touring.com that is beind discussed right now. I think Matt is going to post up some pics.

[GM Muscle]

i may be going down that road since jim never called me back...

[Payton King]

message. That is not like him not to return a call.

[GM Muscle]

i talked to him initially and he said he was going to call me back. i just figured maybe he was on vacation with spring break goin on and stuff