Best bolt in subframe for the money????

[x-tream]

For the money what is the best bolt in front sub frame for a 67-69 camaro. Perferably a hub to hub kit.

[lil427z]

www.martzchassis.net
is a good choise.
rick kirkindall

[Mean 69]

Currently, I'd say a modified stock frame, with well thought out parts that compliment the rear suspension. For now, anyway. The ATS solution holds a lot of promise, it improves some of the inherent geometry issues, and allows the use of contemporary brakes. You will get a ton of opinions on this and that, but at this point, I feel that a well executed stock unit will kepp up with, or out-do any of the aftermarket frames, for a fraction of the price. Pretty good value.

Mark

[Payton King]

Depends on what you are trying to accomplish. Everyone has different performance goals and budgets. I am using a 21st century subframe with C5 stuff. They are a sponsor on this site.

Payton

[TravisB]

Originally Posted by Payton King

Depends on what you are trying to accomplish. Everyone has different performance goals and budgets. I am using a 21st century subframe with C5 stuff. They are a sponsor on this site.

Payton

there set up does look very nice

[Steve1968LS2]

Best Subframe (IMO) - the 21st Century deal, a close second is Wayne Due

Best Subframe on a budget.. modified stock

"for the money" is such a relative term.. for the lowbuck approach you can't beat a well done stocker.. If you take $$$ out of the equation then see my first comment.

Also, there are several new front subs on the horizon from DSE, lateral dynamics and more.. but for now my statement stands

[XcYZ]

[Rob07002]

Originally Posted by Mean 69

Currently, I'd say a modified stock frame, with well thought out parts that compliment the rear suspension. For now, anyway. The ATS solution holds a lot of promise, it improves some of the inherent geometry issues, and allows the use of contemporary brakes. You will get a ton of opinions on this and that, but at this point, I feel that a well executed stock unit will kepp up with, or out-do any of the aftermarket frames, for a fraction of the price. Pretty good value.

Mark

How can you say a fraction of the price when if you add up the cost of parts a new aftermkt jambony looks to be the better deal:

Tubular uppers and lowers = $700 avg
Rack & Pinion = $800 avg
Brakes = $1100 - 1700 Baer track's or Wilwood's 6 piston
Time to perform g-mod = ????
Misc, Ball joints, hardware, motor mounts = $300

$2900 conservatively, $3500 with upgrades

Maybe I'm missing something, but for the money wouldn't one be better off going w a new frame, that improves geometry, allows for wider tires, that bolts up, in a nice complete package. Plus what if you just want to go aftermkt, wow factor, or if existing frame is damaged?

For what its worth, I'll be buying an aftermkt frame when the time comes, Any updates on the DSE or other units coming out.

My $.02

[907rs]

Until there is a definitive head to head comparison by a third party, I say you're on your own.

As of yet, I've only seen performance/road tests published for a couple of manufacturers.

[Mkelcy]

Originally Posted by Rob07002

How can you say a fraction of the price when if you add up the cost of parts a new aftermkt jambony looks to be the better deal:

Tubular uppers and lowers = $700 avg
Rack & Pinion = $800 avg
Brakes = $1100 - 1700 Baer track's or Wilwood's 6 piston
Time to perform g-mod = ????
Misc, Ball joints, hardware, motor mounts = $300

$2900 conservatively, $3500 with upgrades

Maybe I'm missing something, but for the money wouldn't one be better off going w a new frame, that improves geometry, allows for wider tires, that bolts up, in a nice complete package. Plus what if you just want to go aftermkt, wow factor, or if existing frame is damaged?

For what its worth, I'll be buying an aftermkt frame when the time comes, Any updates on the DSE or other units coming out.

My $.02

In a budget build, you can reuse the stock UCAs & LCAs - so knock off $700.

I wouldn't do a R&P in a budget build, just get a good box, say $350, knock off another $450.

Brakes are going to be the same from stock to aftermarket subframe, but you can do LS1 13" brakes on a stock subframe for under $500.

Time to perform G Mod? - Please we're hobbyists!

Misc, Ball joints, hardware, motor mounts = $300 - okay

You forgot DSE or GW UCA & LCA bushings, a good sway bar, shocks and springs and solid subframe to body mount bushings - Say $900.

So I can do a first class rebuild of a stock subframe, with a new fast ratio steering box, 13" LS1 brakes, aftermarket Delrin or Delalum UCA and LCA bushings, a sway bar, rebuilt steering linkage, new shocks and springs and solid subframe to body bushings for about $2,200. It will accept 245-45-17's and handles extremely well, as this is exactly the setup I have on my car now.

I've ordered the 21st Century subframe, and let me tell you, by the time all is said and done, it'll be well in excess of $6,000 before it hits the road and that's trying to do it inexpensively. If you have 21st Century supply the C5 suspension bits and brakes, you're looking at close to $7,000 before even thinking about their $1,800 headers, which they say are needed with their subframe.

So which is the better bang for the buck? Don't misunderstand me, if you're doing a price is no object performance car (sort of my current project), the aftermarket subframes are probably the way to go. But you can get wonderful performance with a stock subframe and control arms put together with well chosen after market parts.