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01-24-2010, 11:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elitecustombody
you already quoted my answer to your question
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So adding rod to the edge is butchering... But if you have to, go head and do it  Stefan... Not tring to bust chops here just tring to learn,I know you know what your talking about. But if I tried all that you said and still can't get a proper gap go head and weld the rod to the edge. So go head and butcher it  Is'int this a contradiction. Help me understand. I have the same concerns and see alot of the top builders using this method. I also see them splitting the edge and filling the gap to tighten up the gap.Is this better? Have you done this? Butchering my car is the last thing I want to do..
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 Mario
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01-24-2010, 12:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DOOM
So adding rod to the edge is butchering... But if you have to, go head and do it  Stefan... Not tring to bust chops here just tring to learn,I know you know what your talking about. But if I tried all that you said and still can't get a proper gap go head and weld the rod to the edge. So go head and butcher it  Is'int this a contradiction. Help me understand. I have the same concerns and see alot of the top builders using this method. I also see them splitting the edge and filling the gap to tighten up the gap.Is this better? Have you done this? Butchering my car is the last thing I want to do..
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yes i use that method on trunk gaps, and hood gaps, alot easier to work.
shearing thin pieces of 18ga to fill split to weld, we spot(sparingly) ,with mig, then tig weld with silicon bronze alot of time, makes metal finishing so easy.
we sheared an even 1/4 piece till it tapered we then sheared the angled piece. all was butt welded, under neath was cleaned up as well. makes for the best gap repair possible.
Last edited by 68protouring454; 01-16-2011 at 06:28 PM.
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01-24-2010, 12:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 68protouring454
yes i use that method on trunk gaps, and hood gaps, alot easier to work.
shearing thin pieces of 18ga to fill split to weld, we spot(sparingly) ,with mig, then tig weld with silicon bronze alot of time, makes metal finishing so easy.
we sheared an even 1/4 piece till it tapered we then sheared the angled piece. all was butt welded, under neath was cleaned up as well. makes for the best gap repair possible.
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Thanx great visual
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 Mario
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01-24-2010, 01:13 PM
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jake, are you actually splitting the panel and widening the gap, or are you adding a vertical piece and then filling it in?
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01-24-2010, 04:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The WidowMaker
jake, are you actually splitting the panel and widening the gap, or are you adding a vertical piece and then filling it in?
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no, a common issue with goodmark trunks is there too small for the hole width wise. the gaps were arounf 7/16ths. we sliced the quarter 1/16th from edge, moved over till we had 3/16ths strong gap and measured, then used shear to shear filler piece that we but tig welded in using silicon bronze. metal finished to 80 grit and body worked.
goodluck
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01-24-2010, 04:57 PM
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so elite, tell us. if you need a deck lid and buy a goodmark one and it has almost 1/2 gaps on each side, how do you make it fit correct? or how about a goodmark hood which commonly has good side gaps but almost always tapered gap on the front against the header panel, one side of middle is good other is wide, what is out of shape then? i guess no aftermarket panel company would make something that out of tolerance? please let us all in on how to adjust quarter panels to make the trunk lid fit.
ps- maybe i should go drag some pics off dse's website, troys website of panel aligment and welding, etc. I forgot they are monkeys as well
Last edited by 68protouring454; 01-24-2010 at 05:00 PM.
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01-24-2010, 05:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 68protouring454
so elite, tell us. if you need a deck lid and buy a goodmark one and it has almost 1/2 gaps on each side, how do you make it fit correct? or how about a goodmark hood which commonly has good side gaps but almost always tapered gap on the front against the header panel, one side of middle is good other is wide, what is out of shape then? i guess no aftermarket panel company would make something that out of tolerance? please let us all in on how to adjust quarter panels to make the trunk lid fit.
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Jake you haven't heard anytime a gap is to wide you put the car on the frame machine and tighten her up....you know just pull the rear rails together tap it with a a body hammer, pick it with a PDR tool do some adjusting and thats that....
We weld edges, split panels, anything we have to do to make gaps perfect as long as the panel isnt warped and its metal finished there is no way to tell one way from the other.....
there is NO car that camed from the factory I have ever seen with 3/16 gaps as most of the new OE's have and im gonna say the car with the metal finshed welded gaps blows the car with the metal massaged (non-butchered) technique away panel fit wise...
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01-24-2010, 05:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 68protouring454
so elite, tell us. if you need a deck lid and buy a goodmark one and it has almost 1/2 gaps on each side, how do you make it fit correct? or how about a goodmark hood which commonly has good side gaps but almost always tapered gap on the front against the header panel, one side of middle is good other is wide, what is out of shape then? i guess no aftermarket panel company would make something that out of tolerance? please let us all in on how to adjust quarter panels to make the trunk lid fit.
ps- maybe i should go drag some pics off dse's website, troys website of panel aligment and welding, etc. I forgot they are monkeys as well
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somebody got their panties in a wad? stop buying poor fitting parts and most of your fitting problems will go away.
just because everyone is doing it doesn't make it right.
I'll say it again, any monkey can weld rods to tighten up gaps,but it takes a real craftsman to line and massage panels for perfect fit,
read my previous posts CLOSER and maybe you'll understand where I'm coming from
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Elite Custom Body
1998 Supra APU 6spd
2007 TBSS
1998 GS400TT widebody
1969 Firebird
1979 Firebird LS3,DSE,Baer
1938 Dodge LC pickup
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01-25-2010, 06:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 68protouring454
no, a common issue with goodmark trunks is there too small for the hole width wise. the gaps were arounf 7/16ths. we sliced the quarter 1/16th from edge, moved over till we had 3/16ths strong gap and measured, then used shear to shear filler piece that we but tig welded in using silicon bronze. metal finished to 80 grit and body worked.
goodluck
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Without a tig welder, should I stay away from silicon bronze? How do you use silicon bronze to seal / fill the joints between the tulip panel / qtrs and qtrs to rear body panel? Can I use a mig? if so size wire?
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Project: " Chain Reaction "
A.K.A. " BIG " by wife, biatch in garage.
1969 RS Camaro, L92 T56, Chassisworks sub, Quadra-Link, Bear, Ford 9".
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01-25-2010, 08:11 AM
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use .023 mig wire.er70s
we use silicon bronze as it requires alittle less heat then er70s filler, we use .035 tig filler rod but thats as small as i can get it. It metal finishes as nice or better then steel.
Not sure I follow you on the sealing of tulip panel etc. we usually use fusor metal glue(108 or 110b) for the tulip panel to quarter panel seams, you can clamp them underneath fairly easy. provides a very nice seam for seam sealing before paint. we then plug weld the window seam and the trunk weather strip seam, if leaving trunk weather strip piece in place we will glue that seam and use 3 kleckos to hold it together
Last edited by 68protouring454; 01-25-2010 at 08:14 AM.
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