I think you could save a few bucks by just using arp main bolts and stock caps. I believe if you run studs, you have to get the block aligned honed. So if the block didn't need to be aligned honed, this would save you some $$$.
with that eagle crank you will want to align-hone anyway.it wont need studs,good bolts and stock caps.or use some billet caps but you really dont need them.are them alumiun heads.i would use a demon carb for it.sounds good though,will be screamer.just a guess i bet around 550-575 horse
What are your planned use for the motor (street, drag, road coarse)? What rear gear ratio? how much does the car weigh?
If you are planning to run a solid roller on the street you should invest in the best lifters and springs that you can get.
Roller lifters were designed for more of a racing application and dont take kindly to idling or stop and go situations. The lubrication for the roller bearings come from oil splashing up onto the roller. In a low RPM situation, you get very little oil getting down into the rollers for lubrication.
To add to the problem, rollers require a lot more spring presure to keep the roller in contact with the cam. If the roller don't stay in contact with the cam the skid and bounce off the cam and this will destroy the bearings in the rollers.
I would suggest Isky Red Zone, or Crower lifters with the HIPPO (Hi Pressure Pin Oiling) option. Both of these lifters use pressurized oil to directly feed the roller bearings in the lifters. The Iskys are what I am using, they are rebuildable.
I would also suggest the use of a rev-kit to help keep the lifter in contact with the cam.
Finaly, I would suggest you get as good as springs as you can. Since that cam in a 383 will peak HP around 6200-6500 RPM, you don't need super heavy springs. I am running a similar cam 244/254 @ .050 in a 388 and I plan on running Isky tool room springs with around 175# on the seat and around 425 open. If you use a lot of spring pressure, you are putting a heavy load on the roller bearings, but if you are too light on pressure your lifter will loose contact with the cam. It is a dance to get the right ballance of spring pressure.
The rest of the combo looks ok. The Dart heads don't have real good flow out of the box but I understand they port up nicely. Steel main caps are nice but the stock 4 bolt caps with studs will take quit a bit of HP. If you are going to spray the motor the main caps would be nice insurance.
With alum heads and that cam, I would shoot for around 10.5 CR. Keep the quench tight and you should be able to tune it to run on pump gas.
As far as the carb goes, I would look at the 830 holley or one of the BG carbs with annular boosters.
Brian Hobaugh SCCA National Tour June 2014
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