The comment about billet flywheel's, are these aluminum or steel? I can get a chromoly or billet aluminum flywheel for my application. Which one would be the better way to go? I'm checking if either are SFI rated. Thanks.
The comment about billet flywheel's, are these aluminum or steel? I can get a chromoly or billet aluminum flywheel for my application. Which one would be the better way to go? I'm checking if either are SFI rated. Thanks.
The SFI flywheel is just one part of the "system" you should have in place. You also need top quality (arp) flywheel bolts, clutch mount bolts, SFI bellhousing, or scatter shield, and a high quality clutch disc and pressure plate.
Any of those parts can grenade on you and destroy your feet/legs.
The comment about billet flywheel's, are these aluminum or steel? I can get a chromoly or billet aluminum flywheel for my application. Which one would be the better way to go? I'm checking if either are SFI rated. Thanks.
I think your questions is really about how heavy a flywheel is most appropriate, and you'll probably find differences of opinion in that regard. Personally, I'm not a fan of aluminum/lightweight flywheels on street cars. But I know others who find them far more favorable than I do.
I'll probably go the chromoly. It's sfi certified and only 1.5 lbs heavier than the aluminum. However, the billet aluminum is sfi as well. I'll be picking up a schattershield and ARP bolts as well. Not sure what I'm doing for the clutch yet but I'll be keeping all of this in mind as I make the selection. I just changed engines and it came with an aluminum bell but this thread reminded me that I need to get the scattershield despite the $600 price tag.
I'll probably go the chromoly. It's sfi certified and only 1.5 lbs heavier than the aluminum. However, the billet aluminum is sfi as well. I'll be picking up a schattershield and ARP bolts as well. Not sure what I'm doing for the clutch yet but I'll be keeping all of this in mind as I make the selection. I just changed engines and it came with an aluminum bell but this thread reminded me that I need to get the scattershield despite the $600 price tag.
I think you might have misunderstood what I was saying. A lighter flywheel is not necessarily better. It may be (and often is) worse for anything other than pure track driving. In fact, even on a track car too light a flywheel can be a problem.
I think your questions is really about how heavy a flywheel is most appropriate, and you'll probably find differences of opinion in that regard. Personally, I'm not a fan of aluminum/lightweight flywheels on street cars. But I know others who find them far more favorable than I do.
i have an alu flywheel in my Nova with a Dual Disk clutch, i like it, makes it rev alot faster, but if i was drag racing i would be using a steel one to keep the inertia up
what is it you don't like about them for a street car.
can you imagine what that Chevelle would have looked like if it had an aluminum bell housing??????
what is it you don't like about them for a street car.
Effective loss of torque, too little benefit for the cost, reduced strength (debatable).
Bottom line, on the street and the track, every time I or a friend has used a lightweight flywheel, there has been no real measured improvement at the cost of some amount of drivability. At the 1/4 mile, typically have found them to even sometimes slow the car down. It all depends, but why bother for a street car?
Brian Hobaugh SCCA National Tour June 2014
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