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Old 01-09-2012, 12:08 PM
rusty rusty is offline
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Default T56 in chevelle

I have a 67 chevelle with a small block and would like to put a T56 out of a 99 camaro in it. The car is currently a four speed with a bench seat. I would like to keep the bench. Do I need to move the shifter to the forward spot or can I just use a different shifter that moves the handle forward without tearing into the transmission? I would also like to keep my bellhousing and clutch how well do the adapters work?
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Old 01-09-2012, 03:15 PM
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214Chevy 214Chevy is offline
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Yes, you are going to have to move the shifter to the forward position. Also, depending on how tall you are and the position of your bench, you are going to have to use a curved shifter to clear the bench. Especially, if you have the bench slid forward alot. Otherwise shifting into 2nd ,4th and 6th gears will hit the seat.
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Old 01-09-2012, 04:11 PM
rusty rusty is offline
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Default T 56 behind small block

Do you know anything about the adaptor plates? I'm not thrilled with going hydraulic, but is it best to switch over? I'd like to keep the cost as low as possible.
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Old 01-10-2012, 06:21 AM
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You do know you'll have to enlarge the tranny tunnel to fit that trans right?

I ran a BBC/T56 in my '66, with a bench. I actually moved the whole seat back about 2-3" from factory (they're to far forward for me stock), and made a shifter handle that moved the stick forward about 1.5" or so, going from a foggy memory.
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Old 01-10-2012, 10:31 AM
rusty rusty is offline
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Default t56

I'm not worried about expanding the tunnel. The mechanical side of things is what concerns me. There seem to be a lot of different ways to bolt a t56 to a small block and I just need advice on the best and cheapest way. I have a factory T56 sitting in my garage.
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Old 01-21-2012, 12:31 PM
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Tweaked Zed Tweaked Zed is offline
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Default Clutch

I've done it both ways. Did the stock LT1 hydraulics in the 95. Worked real good for a few years but I really ended up with too much hp and abused it too much for a single LT1 pull clutch. Keep in mind it's nasty hp I'm talking about (800hp) and I really beat on it (like a roid rage beating, on a geeky fat guy that just pissed on your hood after sleeping with your wife). So I went to a twin with an internal hydraulic throw out. Clutch action works just as good as before. Used the stock master too. And it's holding all I can do to it.

Did a mechanical in the 69 because, as you, thought it would be cheaper and easier. I already had the mechanical clutch so figured I'd use it. Too be honest, I don't like it near as well as the hydraulics. I would never do mechanical again. No problems mind you. Just there is a reason why all manufacturers use hydraulics now. It is simply a better system and is worth the couple extra bucks. And no adjustments ever. Just remember that the muncie,T10 bell adapter plate for the T56 needs to be re-drilled to mount the T56 straight. Although they may have fixed that by now. Don't ask me why they made a plate that doesn't straighten the clocking.... just dumb. If you need a bell, quick time makes a proper one so you don't need the stupid adapter plate. Mcleod does too.

My advice. Get the complete LT1 hydraulics/clutch and use it. Can't say enough good things about it. And if you have any issues, all the hydraulics are on the outside of the bell. Most people don't tho. You can even order an adapter flywheel to bolt it right together. Or run a spacer on the slave like I did, since they didn't make the thicker flywheel back then. Worked perfect, as I experimented with thicknesses until I could just tap the clutch at gear changes. But that's hardcore beating you prolly don't care about. ;-)
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1963 Nova SS, 383sbc, 700r4, 3.73 8.2, CPP 4wdiscs, Cragars, mostly driven by the GF.
1973 Camaro RS, 454 BBC, T400, 3.73 8.5, newly acquired full resto, next PT project.
1995 Camaro Z28, 440ci SB2.2, T56, 9", PB 9.70 @ 142mph - 2011 Hot Rod Drag Week 2nd place BB/NA
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Last edited by Tweaked Zed; 01-21-2012 at 12:43 PM.
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