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  #11  
Old 09-04-2012, 03:31 PM
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Vince@Meanstreets Vince@Meanstreets is offline
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Ahhh don't worry about it, your car go to town. Can't wait to see it go together. Mind if I asked what you paid for it? Another reason to hate you. LOL. : D
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  #12  
Old 09-04-2012, 06:58 PM
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While I don't mind the question, honestly I feel I got a decent deal on it and what I have seen some others state they paid for rusty non-SS rollers, probably best I just keep it to myself That and I have seen comments on this forum that stating prices seems to be a no-no and will spin this thread completely out of control.

I went through the Classic Industries catalog the guy gave me and I can see why he let it go - most people don't realize how much all the little stuff will nickel and dime you on a car like this and he had a lot of items marked. I made up a spreadsheet and including niceties like new bumpers and rear taillight assemblies that I don't really need, it hit $10K without carpet, seat covers, suspension or engine/trans. I suspect he saw numbers around $25K to get it all back together. I expect that, he didn't, so I think it worked in my favor for the haggling part.
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  #13  
Old 09-04-2012, 09:56 PM
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Check with Matt's classic bow ties. Site Sponsors may give you a better price.
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  #14  
Old 09-04-2012, 11:04 PM
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thanks for the recommendation - will check them out!
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  #15  
Old 12-03-2012, 07:20 PM
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Picked the car up and trailered it home after SEMA last month, so getting ready to start digging in. First order of business was designing up a full frame chassis for the car with 2x3 .095 wall tubing and 1.75 .095 DOM for the cage. Sort of nice being an engineer and having access to analysis software; I removed about 50 lbs of triangulation that, while looked like it would matter, had little to no effect on overall rigidity.

The orange bars at the rear don't seem to make any difference but I sort of can't let them go That main bar across there will have the transaxle mid-mount welded to it so I feel the need to tie it in better, and the fuel cell will be mounted on that "cage" as well. The gray door bars will be removable (which will be a PITA keeping 4 break points lined up perfectly) as well as the bar across the main loop for belts as I would like to have a rear seat setup if I can manage to keep the tunnel small enough with the transaxle torque tube and low stance pushing things up in the body.

At least that is the plan - those things have a way of changing This is probably the 5th chassis design in the last month as I go out and lay under the car periodically and then search this forum for all the chassis cars to glean ideas as well. That and being an amateur always makes for "dynamic" progress.

One thing I am considering is keeping the chassis/engine/trans completely level to ground and then raking the body on it v. raking the suspension pickup points and then everything is raked relative to ground. That is why the outer rocker rails appear to run at an angle... because they do. I don't see this done with other cars so maybe I am over thinking it, wouldn't be the first time
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