Building my big ten bolt or why not

[ErikLS2]

Originally Posted by Ron Sutton

Erik,
If you don't mind sharing about your car ... how much HP? How do you drive the car? How much does it weigh? How big are the tires?

Don't mind sharing at all, car is still being built, I'm setting the record for longest build time. It's a 69 Camaro, mild LS2 at best so most ever probably 500hp, 18" 275 tires, possible mini-tub someday. I would do the C-Clip eliminators in a heartbeat but the last I checked it couldn't be done with the C6 Z06 brakes and Kore3 adapters I'm using. I'm assuming though that those brakes are beefy enough that unless under a real hard corner they should keep the wheel somewhat in place until I can get stopped. If there's a better option out there now I would love to hear about it.

[WSSix]

Originally Posted by DETON8R

A drag race magazine did an article, I think the title was "Ten Second Ten Bolt" and the subject of the article was that a 10 bolt with c-clip eliminators, forged axles, HD Diff cover, quality gears and a good posi-traction / limited slip / spool unit would take care of most cars, even cars that car were going to race exclusively.

After figuring out all the cost elements to upgrade my 10 bolt versus a 12 bolt or 9-inch, I searched for a 12 bolt or 9 inch or dana 60 that I didn't need to do much swapping of parts. I found and used 9-inch because I had the time to be discriminating, and the rear end had most of what I wanted already installed and in good shape (gears, locker and the right width for the car without having to pay a machine shop a bundle to get what I needed). I probably would have kept my 10 bolt, except I was looking at purchase of a new set of gears for the desired ratio, C-clip eliminators, forged axles and rebuilding the Eaton unit, and then I would need to cut off the leaf spring perches, and weld on the 4-link brackets too.

In the end I spent less on the used 9-inch than I would have spent modifying / upgrading my existing 10 bolt. Not a whole lot, but a few hundred bucks. The discriminating factor was the cost of a new set of gears and the labor for the installation of the c-clip eliminators, and matching forged axles. Again, I had time to look for what I wanted in a used unit, and I had the used 3rd member checked out so that I didn't need to buy a whole bunch of new parts and then pay the labor to install them. I was lucky, time was on my side, and I was able to get what I needed and save a few bucks.

If you are lucky your existing 3rd member has most of what you need already installed. If not, look in the used market and maybe you can find a 9-inch, 12 bolt or dana 60 with everything you need and you only need to tear it down have it checked out and a few things repalced and you are good to go with a swap that will accommodate any changes to you engine package in the future.

Thanks. I'd definitely go used with the 9in if I went that route. I'm cheap like that and really don't see a problem with good used parts. The biggest concern I have right now is if there's a problem with my ten bolt that's going to require a lot of expense. If I can determine that it's good, then I only have a little bit more to do to make it complete.

[WSSix]

Originally Posted by ErikLS2

Don't mind sharing at all, car is still being built, I'm setting the record for longest build time. It's a 69 Camaro, mild LS2 at best so most ever probably 500hp, 18" 275 tires, possible mini-tub someday. I would do the C-Clip eliminators in a heartbeat but the last I checked it couldn't be done with the C6 Z06 brakes and Kore3 adapters I'm using. I'm assuming though that those brakes are beefy enough that unless under a real hard corner they should keep the wheel somewhat in place until I can get stopped. If there's a better option out there now I would love to hear about it.

Check with Marty's build, 2nd chance camaro. He modified his Kore3 set up to work with the eliminators. I'm not sure what calipers he went with in the rear though.

My car is going to be similar to your's as far as rear tire and power levels. I'll eventually go wider but it won't be any time soon. Heck, it's not going to be any time soon that I even get the engine built. So for now, 300 rwhp for me!

[WSSix]

I just noticed I have this thread in the wrong forum

[Sieg]

Originally Posted by WSSix

I just noticed I have this thread in the wrong forum :huh:

LOL, me too......fixed.

[WSSix]

Thanks, Scott

[WSSix]

I finally had the front end aligned and have been driving the car a bit. The rear end isn't making any bad noises. I do have some gear whine but I'm not worried about that at this point. It's not bad.

When I had the front end aligned I asked them to give me the rear end specs also. I have +0.6 degrees toe on the left(driver's) and -0.2 degrees toe on the right. I have not followed the car to verify this but it feels like the back end is stepping out to the right when I'm driving straight. I put the rear end back in the car squared to within 1/16th inch. I have not verified that it hasn't moved somehow yet either. I guess I'm just wondering if with the toe settings I have if that's enough to cause the back end to step out.

[WSSix]

Drove behind my car over the weekend and didn't notice it stepping out any. The friend I had drive the car said it felt fine to him. So I'm good for the most part it seems. Will this level of toe cause premature wear on the tires though?