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				01-19-2014, 02:24 PM
			
			
			
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					Originally Posted by Z06vette  Def need a tune with that cam. & yes i can see it being a bitch on take off if tune is off. I wouldn't run it hard in case its running lean in upper rpm range. Driveability is toughest part to tune. That's a fairly decent sized cam for stock ls1. Even with tune you'll need to give it little bit of throttle when letting clutch out  from dead stop. Spend the money on a good tuner it will be worth it and be right the first time. |  
Ok, that makes sense. I was told the cam was not really all that big. After hearing it in the car it does sound rather radical even with no exhaust . I was gonna go straight to paint but I think I am gonna get exhaust, tune, then I can drive the car to wherever I have to instead of towing it.
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				01-20-2014, 01:22 PM
			
			
			
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			It sounds like you also need the clutch adjusted if you're having trouble going from neutral to first. 
 Definitely get it to a competent tuner, and don't beat in it till then.
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				01-20-2014, 02:34 PM
			
			
			
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			Anthony,
 Good to hear on the progress! Quick questin is teh clutch a Ls1 or Ls7 style, and did the kit include flywheel, etc/  Have you tried contacting Luke Perf on the clutch?  Also before going into the tune direction some steps you can check to make sure the system does not have any other issues.
 
 Was the clutch a complete kit, and new, never installed?  The reason I ask is because LS7 style clutches behave differently from LS1 clutches and will need to be "reset" before installing.
 
 With the car off, with the clutch pressed are you getting decent resistance and return?  With multiple presses, any changes?
 
 With the engine on, does it change dramatically?  Was the slave bled correctly, and which one did you use?  Drill modded or not?
 
 I am assuming the install, orientation of clutch disk, bleeding, etc are all good.
 
 Good luck, Gui
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				01-20-2014, 02:53 PM
			
			
			
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			This question is a bit from left field, but what did you put in the transmission for fluid?
 I was told by many sources that using any synthetic ATF fluid...or basically anything, but the Dex III the tag called for can cause shifting difficulties in and out of first and reverse.
 
				__________________Lance
 1985 Monte Carlo SS Street Car
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				01-22-2014, 03:20 AM
			
			
			
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					Originally Posted by geberhard  Anthony,
 Good to hear on the progress! Quick questin is teh clutch a Ls1 or Ls7 style, and did the kit include flywheel, etc/  Have you tried contacting Luke Perf on the clutch?  Also before going into the tune direction some steps you can check to make sure the system does not have any other issues.
 
 Was the clutch a complete kit, and new, never installed?  The reason I ask is because LS7 style clutches behave differently from LS1 clutches and will need to be "reset" before installing.
 
 With the car off, with the clutch pressed are you getting decent resistance and return?  With multiple presses, any changes?
 
 With the engine on, does it change dramatically?  Was the slave bled correctly, and which one did you use?  Drill modded or not?
 
 I am assuming the install, orientation of clutch disk, bleeding, etc are all good.
 
 Good luck, Gui
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Thanks Gui, the clutch I picked was the ls1 luk clutch kit I asked about previously. I am getting the car back later this week and can try some of the suggestions you had previously. Today I will text you some picture updates. 
 
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					Originally Posted by SSLance  This question is a bit from left field, but what did you put in the transmission for fluid?
 I was told by many sources that using any synthetic ATF fluid...or basically anything, but the Dex III the tag called for can cause shifting difficulties in and out of first and reverse.
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I dont remember. It was 100% synthetic I remember that much. I will check and find out. The trans doesnt feel stiff tho.
		 
			
		
			
			
			
			
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				01-24-2014, 11:30 AM
			
			
			
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					Originally Posted by 69greyghost  I dont remember. It was 100% synthetic I remember that much. I will check and find out. The trans doesnt feel stiff tho. |  Full synthetic fluid can cause the T56 paper blocker rings to swell and make it difficult to shift into and out of first and reverse...
 
Just google "T56 Synthetic fluid" and start reading.
		 
				__________________Lance
 1985 Monte Carlo SS Street Car
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				01-26-2014, 07:18 AM
			
			
			
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					Originally Posted by geberhard  Anthony,
 Good to hear on the progress! Quick questin is teh clutch a Ls1 or Ls7 style, and did the kit include flywheel, etc/  Have you tried contacting Luke Perf on the clutch?  Also before going into the tune direction some steps you can check to make sure the system does not have any other issues.
 
 Was the clutch a complete kit, and new, never installed?  The reason I ask is because LS7 style clutches behave differently from LS1 clutches and will need to be "reset" before installing.
 
 With the car off, with the clutch pressed are you getting decent resistance and return?  With multiple presses, any changes?
 
 With the engine on, does it change dramatically?  Was the slave bled correctly, and which one did you use?  Drill modded or not?
 
 I am assuming the install, orientation of clutch disk, bleeding, etc are all good.
 
 Good luck, Gui
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Ok I think I have resolved my issue with my car, I think anyway. So I drove it yesterday just real quick, didnt get through 4th. However it drove really well and that surprised me. No issues coming out of first and it accelerated good. Then after I stopped and examined my car,  I tried to take off again and had the similar issue that made me make this thread. I realized however the emergency brake was on and this time in particular thats what caused me to have issues getting rolling without the car stalling out. I am hoping that this was the issue and a dyno tune will remedy any other bugs my car may have. I know I sound like a duffus but I wanted to at least share that the car was running and shifting 10 times better.
		 
			
		
			
			
			
			
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				01-24-2014, 10:57 AM
			
			
			
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					Originally Posted by 69greyghost  Ok, that makes sense. I was told the cam was not really all that big. After hearing it in the car it does sound rather radical even with no exhaust . I was gonna go straight to paint but I think I am gonna get exhaust, tune, then I can drive the car to wherever I have to instead of towing it. |  230/236 on a 112 LSA? That's pretty big with lots of overlap. The MAF if your running one won't be to happy if it's anywhere close to the throttle body and the MAP sensor, it's not happy at all at idle Ill bet. A good tuner can work around most of this where do you live?
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				01-24-2014, 11:08 AM
			
			
			
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					Originally Posted by Solid LT1  230/236 on a 112 LSA? That's pretty big with lots of overlap. The MAF if your running one won't be to happy if it's anywhere close to the throttle body and the MAP sensor, it's not happy at all at idle Ill bet. A good tuner can work around most of this where do you live? |  
I live in San Leandro Northern California. If you look at my photobucket you can see how my set up is. I was going to have Rick from synergy in Fremont California. I have heard really good things about that place.
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				01-31-2014, 06:25 AM
			
			
			
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					Originally Posted by 69greyghost  I live in San Leandro Northern California. If you look at my photobucket you can see how my set up is. I was going to have Rick from synergy in Fremont California. I have heard really good things about that place. |  Rick is a great tuner! He would be my choice to get the job done. Rick tuned our C5 Z06 back in 2003 never any issues with that tune passed smog and ran better than most of the C5s in WSCC competition. Rick picked up 21HP from GM tune with his efforts. I live. By Ricks shop.....used to be driving home from work and I would see a C5/6 Vette sounded good, then at the stoplight I would see Rick inside checking the laptop...looking for results. Rick is a cut above the average tuner and has paid his dues. My LS3 build will be visiting Synergy when it's up and running. Rick not only has an accurate chassis dyno but, goes the extra yard in driving the car after dyno tuning to check all the performance. He probably has such a huge data base of his past efforts by now that he doesn't do as much real world prefecting of tune but, in the old days I know your money would buy you 3-4hours of earnest hard work and effort from really talented tuner. I was looking at a friends C5 LS3 swap that Rick had tuned and noticed a few tricks Rick had done to smooth out the big cam that was in that motor. Rick is one of the best!
		 
				 Last edited by Solid LT1; 01-31-2014 at 06:34 AM.
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