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Old 02-21-2014, 03:24 PM
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Notfernuthin but.....


I'm at a loss as to why someone wouldn't think this would have an impact.
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Old 02-22-2014, 07:47 AM
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I have 18x10 with 6 inch back spacing bfg kdw 275 35 18 tires wilwood brakes speedteck control arms and fits perfect with minor modification to the inner fender. I did lose some turning radius had to weld a washer to the steering arms so it touches the control arms so the tire wont rub on the frame. I also tried it on two friends cars 69 e 67 fits on both with out any fender mods only losing minor turning radius tire brand does make a difference I have two sets of rims same back spacing one with bfg kdw they are rounded at the edges fits perfect others are toyo 888 did not fit well I made then fit but required a lot more fender modification.
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Old 02-22-2014, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v8s only View Post
tire brand does make a difference I have two sets of rims same back spacing one with bfg kdw they are rounded at the edges fits perfect others are toyo 888 did not fit well I made then fit but required a lot more fender modification.
yes it does, those 888's are really square edged, more like a track tire and they are hard to fit that way, there idea of the millimeter measurement is a little wider also BFG is also wider than Falken's millimeter measurement
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Old 02-22-2014, 03:00 PM
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Great...I'm using R888's! Good thing my Firebird is still in primer I guess. I wonder if I could go with a little more back spacing to make them fit better?
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Old 02-24-2014, 07:59 AM
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CW - I'm using C6 Z06 brakes from kore 3. they use a machined hub similar to the wilwood pictured above.

The fender bolts are not an issue with me. I get it, i can take them out or put a button head in there. That's not what worries me. I'm also not worried about rolling the inner part of the fender if necessary. What is disconcerting is seeing how the fender lays over the tire when the wheel is turned. The fender sits on the tire.

Seriously, you guys are helping me and I'm sure others out by going through this exercise with us. If you have more pictures or you have a car in the shop you can make a short video of the car maneuvering it will help my confidence tremendously. There is nothing worse than putting tons of time and money into something and then hitting a wall like this.

#1 i may need somewhere between 1/8" to 3/16" less BS (effectively pushing the tire farther out...) Will double check the measurements. I'm basing this on the fact that I do a little more than "graze the frame under full lock.

#2 I need to raise my car 3/4" (sad face)

#3 I need to add another -1.0 degree of camber (total of -1.5)

I'll keep y'all posted.
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Old 02-24-2014, 09:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glr0212 View Post
CW - I'm using C6 Z06 brakes from kore 3. they use a machined hub similar to the wilwood pictured above.

The fender bolts are not an issue with me. I get it, i can take them out or put a button head in there. That's not what worries me. I'm also not worried about rolling the inner part of the fender if necessary. What is disconcerting is seeing how the fender lays over the tire when the wheel is turned. The fender sits on the tire.

Seriously, you guys are helping me and I'm sure others out by going through this exercise with us. If you have more pictures or you have a car in the shop you can make a short video of the car maneuvering it will help my confidence tremendously. There is nothing worse than putting tons of time and money into something and then hitting a wall like this.

#1 i may need somewhere between 1/8" to 3/16" less BS (effectively pushing the tire farther out...) Will double check the measurements. I'm basing this on the fact that I do a little more than "graze the frame under full lock.

#2 I need to raise my car 3/4" (sad face)

#3 I need to add another -1.0 degree of camber (total of -1.5)

I'll keep y'all posted.
I would wait to get the car running and aligned before you go and make drastic changes. If you are into the frame at full lock that might be ok. I'd like to see what the contact is like at a u turn steering wheel positions which is a lot less degrees than going to full lock. It's easier to do frame modifications than fender and body changes.
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Old 02-24-2014, 09:30 AM
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GLR- I just emailed Tobin and he states his kit actually removes width VS the stock setup. He states -.240 per side. Between that and your backspacing you should have plenty of outer fender clearance but it explains your swaybar issues.
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Old 02-24-2014, 10:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glr0212 View Post
Seriously, you guys are helping me and I'm sure others out by going through this exercise with us.
No problem, I'm a bit of a freak, (ask Vince) I get excited when I talk about suspension, most peoples eyes glaze, but not me, I don't throw numbers and Blah Blah around, I'm not that smart, I look at control arms, spindles, braces/brackets, angles, arcs, designs, and try to figure out how and why they arrived at that solution and how do i make it better or augment that solution, build that, test that, fix that


Quote:
Originally Posted by glr0212 View Post
If you have more pictures or you have a car in the shop you can make a short video of the car maneuvering it will help my confidence tremendously. There is nothing worse than putting tons of time and money into something and then hitting a wall like this.
I'm in California for a little bit with 3 events, packing, working on my car, 48 hour car, and add a little (if I can sneak out in the middle of all this) help to my friend David P. on his crazy ......build but I will either at one of the events or when I get back to Indiana get some prof of life video of the kit on a 69 turning and racing
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Old 02-27-2014, 12:26 PM
jlwdvm jlwdvm is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v8s only View Post
I have 18x10 with 6 inch back spacing bfg kdw 275 35 18 tires wilwood brakes speedteck control arms and fits perfect with minor modification to the inner fender. I did lose some turning radius had to weld a washer to the steering arms so it touches the control arms so the tire wont rub on the frame. I also tried it on two friends cars 69 e 67 fits on both with out any fender mods only losing minor turning radius tire brand does make a difference I have two sets of rims same back spacing one with bfg kdw they are rounded at the edges fits perfect others are toyo 888 did not fit well I made then fit but required a lot more fender modification.
How extensive were the fender mods to get the R888's to work? Looking for some pointers. I also hope to get some V40's ordered soon too, so I need to get an idea of what back spacing will work best with my tires and Wilwood rotors. I'm not against notching the sub frame to maintain turning radius. Thanks!

Last edited by jlwdvm; 02-27-2014 at 12:32 PM.
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Old 02-27-2014, 02:40 PM
cwylie cwylie is offline
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What size Wilwood brakes are you running?
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