help with stainless lines

[ModernMuseum]

Originally Posted by bentfab

Modern Museum I want to make sure that I'm not coming down on you in any way. Just trying to give some light on my experences over the last 20 + years of doing this stuff... You bring up a lot of valid points that are always the topic of plumbing.

Hey, no worries man. I'm not an expert by any means; only a novice at best.

Definitely some good nuggets of info in your post.

[70 chevelle]

Originally Posted by bentfab

It's been working for me for over 20 years. I do have a industrial style flare machine. But every once in a while I revert to a hand held flare tool. I use a imperial flare tool. It will allow the home builder the tightest 90 possible at the end of a tube. The picture below is everything a do-it-yourselfer needs to single or double flare tubing.



Good examples Modern Museum! I tell people to practice all the time with the bundy tube first. Then duplicate your patterns into the stainless. Make sure the bender you use is designated to the tube size your bending.

Not true about double flaring everything.... Usally the S.S. in the aftermarket that comes in the spools is either a thinner wall tube or lower quality material and extra soft. Which is probably why you can double flare it ? I personally WILL NOT SACRIFICE A LIFE FOR A CHEAPER PEACE OF BRAKE LINE TUBING.

Good quality tubing you will only need to single flare. Just like it's always stated in ALL of these topics on flaring. "You need to crank hard to flare S.S. tube (not true)" Well if that's the case why double flare it ?

Yes the pricing isn't cheap for the good stuff, but what isn't ... And what's this all worth in the long hall in a car you just put your blood, sweat, tears, and MONEY into ? I think it adds an extra sense of security, resale sell value, and knowing it's your BRAKE SYSTEM and not an overflow tube.

Modern Museum I want to make sure that I'm not coming down on you in any way. Just trying to give some light on my experences over the last 20 + years of doing this stuff... You bring up a lot of valid points that are always the topic of plumbing.





I've been mixing the two ever sense I started plumbing. A lot of times especially in brake systems the two mix between SAE and AN. It's a matter of knowing when and how to make it work.

Not true about the flares... Think about it.... A flare is a flare(double single). It can be 10* 25* anything. As long as the two matting surfaces (male-female) are of the same angle you will have a perfect seal(which never happens) Also typicaly double flares are used on the softer mild steel tube to help strengthen the tube because it's to thin or soft to start with. So by folding over it self your thickening the tube. Where as S.S. tube is a harder metal (typicaly a thicker wall too) there's only need to single flare. If you tried to double flare S.S. at least the stuff I use and sell it will split.

Remember AN came from the military to speed up the process and the diversity on the vehicles. They were also using it on hydralics which is a really thick wall tube that only requires a single flare.

My best theory is over the years and the transitioning from the military into the automotive world with the mix of SAE 45* and AN 37* this will always be a mis-understood topic that gets way over anilized.


Mark

Do you sell those reamers ? If not what brand are they? Just so I understand correctly , you single flare 45 degree when using stainless line?

[bentfab]

Originally Posted by 70 chevelle

Do you sell those reamers ? If not what brand are they? Just so I understand correctly , you single flare 45 degree when using stainless line?

I don't sell the reamers... but I should. You can get them at Lowes or Home depot. Think the ones I use are Stanley brand.

The S.S. that I use and sell is Aircraft quality .035 wall anneled. And yes single flare it... No matter what degree it is 45* or 37*.

Mark

[frankv11]

More from a first timer
These are the tools that worked for me
Rigid benders work great
Rigid 458r 45 degree flaring its best they also offer it in 37dgs
Imperial 37 worked for me but if I had to buy all over again I would do rigid any day
Transparent angle finder will come in handy
Copper ground wire , for practice and templates it's pretty close to 3/16 I believe is #6 wire.
Can't say enough about how consistent and quick the rigid flaring tool is and it allows tighter turns , cause clamping thickness is a bit less than imperial.
Very helpful site to learn about tube benders
http://www.swagelok.com/downloads/we...N/ms-13-43.pdf

And if you can make or find a way to mount your vise vertically that by it self will make you a better tube bender as your able to step away a get good look at the bending angle. Mine it's adjustable on both planes , built out of an old china drill press. That swagelok site is a must Hope this helps.

[BuddyP]

Ran stainless on mine. What a pain and hard to seal (but was my first time also). However if I were to do it again I'd probably do regular brake line, much easier to work with (and with function in mind, not looks)