Possible Budget LSX Accessory System (GM System)

[BThibodeaux]

Originally Posted by Ummgawa

You could notch the crossmember where the A/C pump would hit. A semi- circular cut out about two inches in the subframe cross member (we are talking stock sub frames here) and reweld or fill in the cut out space and you are in business. Seems to me to be a whole lot less expensive than a new pulley set up.

I am diggin the way you think Jim!

[Dave95z28]

I may use the set up in order to not have to track down all the individual pieces. I am likely just buying a short-block without the accessories, so I will have to get a drive system one way or the other. If I can find a great deal on a complete system on Ebay or LS1Tech I just go that route.

With the AME Subframe you can run the factory accessories and low-mount a/c unit with out problems correct?

Dave

[ironworks]

If you notch the crossmember won't it be pretty time consuming to remove the Ac compresser when it goes bad some day. i did one like that years ago and you almost have to pull the engine to get to the compressor. Wow that sounds great after paint. You know if you mount it there it will go bad. Just the way it goes

The LS7 bracket system is great. It is by far the shortest bracket system but have you priced the accessories that go with that kit. Sure the brackets are cheap, but call the dealer for the Alternator, Power steering pump, Water pump (that is differnet than the the F-body) and the AC compressor. It is not cheap. The whole deal is a bit over 2000.00. When it is all said and done.
Plus if you have an Ls1 you have to by the Ls2 corvette dampener.

Oh and don't forget those core charges. plus you have to modify the late model compressors to work with after market AC. The late model stuff runs the Compressor even when the heater is on. It is continuous duty and the old ones were cycling. I found that one out the hard way also,

[XcYZ]

Payton asked me to post pics of his setup:

[Datsbad]

Originally Posted by Ummgawa

Jason

Thanks for the info. I will say that not every one is building a Camaro X, a Mule or a Fuel. Some folks are on a budget and I offered the solution as an alternative to $3000.00 pulley set up or maybe a 1500.00 fix it. Three inches forward in the engine compartment may not make that much difference to 7 out 10 enthusiasts. Phil Brewer, whom I call a good friend, is very strait forward in solutions and how to arrive at them. Not to long ago, Wayne was the only show in town on sub frames. Now they are every where. I still maintain for most the simplest solution is the best and contained in that solution is compromise. It is just the way it is. Notching the frame means the engine sits forward three to four inches is OK with some dudes. A full on Wine and Cheeze boy will make claims concerning the center of gravity and how it effects the handleing at WOT in a corner-that's cool. 99 out of 100 Pro-touring cars will never see the track, and thats cool too!

My point is not every problem in our favorite Genre has a 2500 solution attached to it. You speak of S & P mounts and A/C brackets, are they available and can you post pix of them? That would be a big help. Inclusion rather than exclusion-thats is the thing that attracts me to Lateral-G. Not some bunch of Holier than thou A holes that scream their own names when they have an Orgasm. I still think, for some, simplest is best.

Jim , I think you are taking this all wrong.
I was simply saying stock sub and a certain type of motor mount it wont work ! It doesnt matter if its a 3000 system or a 50 system .
The notching does not move the engine.
Personally I am just trying to prevent someone trying to do the same thing I did . If someone does not want to listen then fine with me , doesnt make any difference , THEY WILL FIND OUT.

So stock sub, f body or any brackets that mount the ac DOWN LOW , wont work without modifying the stands as Payton pointed out. Then a small cut will still be needed.

So for the record , I wont buttin and tell what works and doesnt. I have personally done the cutting, grinding and head scratching up close and personal to know for sure. Just trying to help the DIY's or the people that write those checks to get it done. I would hate to pay someone for a idea that floats around the net that everyone says will work and turns out does not .

Peace out Bro !!

[Datsbad]

Originally Posted by Dave95z28

I may use the set up in order to not have to track down all the individual pieces. I am likely just buying a short-block without the accessories, so I will have to get a drive system one way or the other. If I can find a great deal on a complete system on Ebay or LS1Tech I just go that route.

With the AME Subframe you can run the factory accessories and low-mount a/c unit with out problems correct?

Dave

Yes Dave you can , This pic doesnt have a engine yet but you can see it will work .

[Payton King]

since I do not have an AME frame, but the rack position looks the same as the 21st century. I could not run the f-body alternator in the stock location (lower driver's side) because it interfered with the power rack lines. Steve (Penny) was able to make his work by remaking a few of the lines. I think he post some pics somewhere.

As far as Street & Performance cataloge. www.hotrodlane.cc I usually speak with Lambert over there. Mark owns the company and answers the phone as much as anyone.

[CraigMorrison]

Originally Posted by Dave95z28

With the AME Subframe you can run the factory accessories and low-mount a/c unit with out problems correct?

Dave

Dave- Here are a few pics to answer your question.

[Ummgawa]

Very helpful..thanks all!! Jason., thanks for the heads up dude -we are on the same page. This is very helpful to us all and again thanks.

[kaptainkw]

Dave/Craig:

Yes, the a/c compressor clears in an LS1 and perhaps an LS2 GTO but I don't believe it will clear LS6, LS2 or LS7 vettes with factory brackets as they are set-back closer to the block. I was just mocking things up today with my new AME sub-frame (awesome by the way!!!) and the LS2 vette a/c bracket sets-back too far and hit the motor mount. I like the idea of Mike Stielow's set-up to solve the problem. Anyone know if the LS2 and LS7 vette pulleys/balancer are the same distance from the block?

Jeff M.