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  #811  
Old 12-24-2014, 09:00 PM
Roberts68 Roberts68 is offline
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Looking forward to the next update. Merry Christmas Michael
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  #812  
Old 12-25-2014, 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Sonar Chief View Post
Joe .... that's a nice Firebird, I had to go back and look at some of the pixs I took of the 4 bar and see the offset of the lower brackets ... duhhhh! I had them on the wrong sides (my bad!), oh well, I think the weld on brackets look cleaner! Hey, its only metal!

I will take your Firebird posts for reference to getting all things square Front2Back, wish I had a lift thou!!!!
Just a suggestion, but 90% of the time while adding/welding suspension brackets AFTER housing ends have been installed, you will find if checked, that your wheels are now toed/cambered and even worse each side is different creating anything but a harmonious situation between opposing wheels.

A fairly simple check can be done and may take two people to get accurate numbers.

If possible, and with wheels bolted on (or bolt on toe plates if you have some), pull a measurement from drivers side to passenger side across rearend, from back side of wheel to back side of wheel "lip"

1st check across the back side of the rearend, 2nd at the front side of the rearend and compare the numbers (they should be the same). 3rd check across the top side of the rearend, and 4th check across the bottom side of the rearend (again, these numbers should be the same). If these numbers are all the same, then you are running parallel and should allow perfect alignment between both rear wheels and with your front.
If these numbers are not the same then you need to correct by laying down a few stitches/welds (that will need to be ground in the direction you want to pull it back in and possibly even quenching with water immediately after to get the needed results. I cannot tell you how many people NEVER check this critical measurement and assume that all is good. Even NEW complete housings should be checked because I have personally seen many big brand name complete housings that failed horribly... I hope this is not your case but figured I would mention before you powder coat.

Jay
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  #813  
Old 12-25-2014, 12:12 PM
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Sonar Chief Sonar Chief is offline
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Originally Posted by Roberts68 View Post
Looking forward to the next update. Merry Christmas Michael
Merry Christmas to you as well!

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Originally Posted by JSM View Post
Just a suggestion, but 90% of the time while adding/welding suspension brackets AFTER housing ends have been installed, you will find if checked, that your wheels are now toed/cambered and even worse each side is different creating anything but a harmonious situation between opposing wheels.

A fairly simple check can be done and may take two people to get accurate numbers.

If possible, and with wheels bolted on (or bolt on toe plates if you have some), pull a measurement from drivers side to passenger side across rearend, from back side of wheel to back side of wheel "lip"

1st check across the back side of the rearend, 2nd at the front side of the rearend and compare the numbers (they should be the same). 3rd check across the top side of the rearend, and 4th check across the bottom side of the rearend (again, these numbers should be the same). If these numbers are all the same, then you are running parallel and should allow perfect alignment between both rear wheels and with your front.
If these numbers are not the same then you need to correct by laying down a few stitches/welds (that will need to be ground in the direction you want to pull it back in and possibly even quenching with water immediately after to get the needed results. I cannot tell you how many people NEVER check this critical measurement and assume that all is good. Even NEW complete housings should be checked because I have personally seen many big brand name complete housings that failed horribly... I hope this is not your case but figured I would mention before you powder coat.

Jay

Jay .... thanks for the advise, I will certainly check these measurements to ensure the axle is true, I didn't weld on the c-clip eliminators but I did check the axle with a straight edge.

Again, thanks for the advise .... learn something new everyday, KOOL!

Happy Holidays to all ...... supposed to get 10 inches of snow here!!!!
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  #814  
Old 12-25-2014, 01:04 PM
RdHuggr68 RdHuggr68 is offline
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Great progress Michael,hope you had a great Christmas . I will check in tomorrow to see what Santa is bring you.
Kevin
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  #815  
Old 12-26-2014, 02:11 PM
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Exclamation Santa stopped by

and brought some car stuff, he's cool! So I figures just cuz there's 7 inches of snow and its 23 degrees out I should get in the garage and test fit the rack. I did change up from the norm cuz I'm going w a manual rack and an EPS unit from GM (that'll be later), but I didn't plan on the dimensions being different from a power unit .... that's hot rodding!

So the game plan is to modify the drivers side motor mount to clear a DD joint, not sure yet how to do this .... Scott might have some ideas. Then the C5 knuckle needs a mod to flush up the steering arm on the knuckle. And the front brace needs clearance for the rack to frame bolt, thinking cut at the front and score the back and bend it to 90 towards the front and weld. Any suggestions would be appreciated!!!

Here's the rack installed and the trouble areas ..... may need to send it back!!!!



Thanks to my sister!


A little too tight here!


Need to clearance this for the bolt head!


Drivers side assembled


Need to flush up this pad for the steering arm to sit flush!


Overall view!

I still need to get over to Fastenal and get the metric bolts for the knuckle to steering arm and order some pinch clamps to get rid of those zipties ...

Anyway, good to get something done and make a plan to get all this working.

Thanks for looking .... hope Santa brought yous guys cool stuff too!
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Last edited by Sonar Chief; 12-26-2014 at 02:24 PM.
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  #816  
Old 12-26-2014, 03:14 PM
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Now that Santa brought you this to continue with the build you'll forget all about the snow and cold once you get into it. Nice!
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  #817  
Old 12-26-2014, 04:18 PM
RdHuggr68 RdHuggr68 is offline
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Wow Michael everything is looking great are you spraying the subframe or having it powdercoated?
Kevin
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  #818  
Old 12-26-2014, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by waynieZ View Post
Now that Santa brought you this to continue with the build you'll forget all about the snow and cold once you get into it. Nice!

What snow? As long as it stays outa my garage I'm good. No snow up there?

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Wow Michael everything is looking great are you spraying the subframe or having it powdercoated?
Kevin
Kevin ... I'm gonna just paint it myself when I do the underside of the Camaro, that's the plan anyway?
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  #819  
Old 12-26-2014, 04:41 PM
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Aftermarket rack's are slightly different then (FOMOCO) made racks. I test fit every frame w/a rack so I know the gusset will clear. On the mullet car john used a flaming river rack, I needed to grind some of the gusset back to clear it also. But a real ford rack fits.
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  #820  
Old 12-26-2014, 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by coolwelder62 View Post
Aftermarket rack's are slightly different then (FOMOCO) made racks. I test fit every frame w/a rack so I know the gusset will clear. On the mullet car john used a flaming river rack, I needed to grind some of the gusset back to clear it also. But a real ford rack fits.
Scott, thanks for looking, do you think I should send this back and get a FOMOCO rack then? Is this gonna hold up? I thought as a kit it would work out better, guess not.
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