Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonar Chief
Joe .... that's a nice Firebird, I had to go back and look at some of the pixs I took of the 4 bar and see the offset of the lower brackets ... duhhhh! I had them on the wrong sides (my bad!), oh well, I think the weld on brackets look cleaner! Hey, its only metal!
I will take your Firebird posts for reference to getting all things square Front2Back, wish I had a lift thou!!!!
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Just a suggestion, but 90% of the time while adding/welding suspension brackets AFTER housing ends have been installed, you will find if checked, that your wheels are now toed/cambered and even worse each side is different creating anything but a harmonious situation between opposing wheels.
A fairly simple check can be done and may take two people to get accurate numbers.
If possible, and with wheels bolted on (or bolt on toe plates if you have some), pull a measurement from drivers side to passenger side across rearend, from back side of wheel to back side of wheel "lip"
1st check across the back side of the rearend, 2nd at the front side of the rearend and compare the numbers (they should be the same). 3rd check across the top side of the rearend, and 4th check across the bottom side of the rearend (again, these numbers should be the same). If these numbers are all the same, then you are running parallel and should allow perfect alignment between both rear wheels and with your front.
If these numbers are not the same then you need to correct by laying down a few stitches/welds (that will need to be ground in the direction you want to pull it back in and possibly even quenching with water immediately after to get the needed results. I cannot tell you how many people NEVER check this critical measurement and assume that all is good. Even NEW complete housings should be checked because I have personally seen many big brand name complete housings that failed horribly... I hope this is not your case but figured I would mention before you powder coat.
Jay