Any car detailers here? step inside - Lateral-g Forums

ricer · #1 07-16-2012, 07:11 PM

So i have a 2011 Pickup (black) that i want to detail. It has very minor "spider webbing" almost zero scratches and just want to stay on top of it since its black. I haven't detailed a car in a good 5yrs or so and researched the latest procedures (or at least tried to).

I am a little confused on what to do. Going to Meguiars site there is so many freaking choices my head hurts, then going to Mothers and its super general almost to general if you ask me. I bought some stuff but thinking of returning it before i get started. I really don't want to clay bar and don't think its necessary since it is so new and gets washed alot. Also don't want to spend a ton of money for any fancy ****. your basic selection at Oreilys/advance/autozone/etc

So i was thinking of doing a paint cleaner (not sure if this is actually needed) then some sort of polish or glaze (don't really know the difference here) and a nice carnuba wax. This will all be done by hand since 1) i don't have a buffer and 2) inexperienced with it.

What do you guys recommend in terms of products and steps?

I bought all meguiars stuff since i have used their stuff in the past -cleaner- ultimate polish- carnuba wax. If this is ok to do then i will do the truck but what to hear what the experts say before getting started.

mpozziCPL · #2 07-16-2012, 07:22 PM

The first step is to wash the exterior with a good car wash detergent, then remove the impurities that have collected on the painted surfaces and the best way to do this is with the clay bar. Only then ca you start to protect what's now clean. I try to clay bar my nicer cars every year no matter if they're parked indoors or not. Even though the vehicle is a year old, there will be gunk that's stuck on the paint.

From there, a good wax coating followed by serious elbow grease, and then a repeat of wax and final buff. Use good quality micro-fiber towels that are designed for detailing and make sure the tags are removed and the seams are not going to scratch the paint if they happen to touch it.

I use Adams Products for the best results but Meguire's and OTC product are also good.

Just my .02 from a lot of detailing work ...

Mary Pozzi

Ron in SoCal · #3 07-16-2012, 07:52 PM

http://www.autopia.org/forum/forum.php

**Spiffav8** · #4 07-16-2012, 07:59 PM

I have used the process Mary mentioned numerous times and it does a really good job. It takes a ton of time, but it's worth it.

Vegas69 · #5 07-16-2012, 08:40 PM

Select the rainbow option at the car wash.

**Ricochet** · #6 07-16-2012, 08:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vegas69

Select the rainbow option at the car wash.

barrrf · #7 07-17-2012, 05:34 AM

Defintely check out Adams website. There are 24 videos showing how to do pretty much everything. Theyre free. Even if you dont buy their stuff, you'll learn alot about paint care.

HAULNSS · #8 07-17-2012, 05:36 AM

Basically, you need to clean, clay, polish, protect.

The polishing step is where the defects are removed, usually with a buffer of some sort. If you don't want to invest in the tools and products to do it, you can always have a quality detailer take care of it for you. Once the vehicle is clean it will be easy for you to maintain from there.

Avoid the $50 craiglist specials and expect to pay a few hundred for a quality paint correction.

If you want to check to see if your car needs a clay bar, find a plastic sandwich bag. Put your hand in the bag and lightly rub your fingers over the paint. If it feels rough, you need to clay. (The bag will amplify the sensitivity) Clay bars were designed for new cars that had rail dust on them and they would start to get rust blooms while sitting on the lot. If you picked up your car at the factory then it may be nice, but usually it sat on a lot at the factory, rode on a rail car, sat in a depot, and rode on a car carrier to the dealer where it will sit on the lot.

If you use a glaze (which is usually a product for filling and hiding minor imperfections) don't expect much durability. They will only last a couple of weeks before the product washes / evaporates away.

There is so much to a proper detail if you are looking for correction and protection.

Some of my detailing examples:
http://www.mnzaino.com/phpbb3/viewforum.php?f=3

Good luck!
Randy

ricer · #9 07-17-2012, 05:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mpozziCPL

From there, a good wax coating followed by serious elbow grease, and then a repeat of wax and final buff. Use good quality micro-fiber towels that are designed for detailing and make sure the tags are removed and the seams are not going to scratch the paint if they happen to touch it.

I use Adams Products for the best results but Meguire's and OTC product are also good.

Just my .02 from a lot of detailing work ...

Mary Pozzi

so there is no need to polish/glaze it? The spidering is very very fine so maybe the wax will be enough i don't know. I was under the impression the polish/glaze is required.

barrrf · #10 07-17-2012, 06:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ricer

so there is no need to polish/glaze it? The spidering is very very fine so maybe the wax will be enough i don't know. I was under the impression the polish/glaze is required.

HaulnSS said it best.

Wash / Wash Again / Clay / Polish / Protect

Check out his examples. And again, see the Adams Polishes website for tutorials. The polishing is the most time consuming part.