Which is better handling wise, drop spindles or springs? I have a mostly stock suspension. I'd like to go down about 2", and if there is no difference I'm apt to go with the springs. I've heard you can run into clearance problems when using drop spindles and aftermarket wheels (I have 18x8's now).
Also, can anyone recommend a good set of aftermarket A-arms? I'm thinking of going with global west ones, they are fairly inexpensive and I can reuse my existing hardware which is fairly new.
I know drop spindles can cause interference with the tie rod and inner side of the wheel (with wide wheels). I don't know if that's the case with 18" wheels though.
If you're looking for tubular control arms, two of our site sponsors make and sell them: Detroit Speed & Engineering and Speedtech Performance.
hotchkis make awesome 2" lowering springs they are cheaper than some others but have been out longer and alot of people use them..dse makes awesome parts and they too have 2" drop springs i have the hotchkis on mine
__________________
1969 ss 350,hotchkis tvs, comp cams 268xe, world products heads, zz4 intake, 670 holley, msd setup eagle alloy 212's, autometer ultra lites......cusotm interior, 2 tone paint and front frame all in the works
What you want to consider is alignment after the drop. Drop spindles create (essentially) a static, straight down drop which doesn't affect the current alignment to a great degree. Lowering springs lower the car in relationship to the spindle which increases camber. To correct the camber the upper arms need to be pushed outboard with more (or less) shims. The only problem here is how straight your car is to begin with and how much "room" you have to correct the alignment.
I will go with dropped spindles every time to get the "majority" of a drop and then adjust that with lowering springs to dial it in. I feel doing it this way leaves more room for adjustment...
Mark
__________________
"Bad Ast" Astro Van Pro-Touring Project.... Heat, beat, file to fit, paint to match...
I like springs mainly because you can get the drop and get an alignment to correct any camber problems. Also you will resceive a better handling suspension because the spring is tighter then the original. Plus spring are like $120 vesus $250+ for spindles.
The tie rod hits the tire unless you run very narrow wheels and tires. Most guys with performance tire/wheel combos can't use drop spindles on a First Gen.
I just cut my Hotchkis front springs because I wanted more drop in the front and I couldnt be happier. It took me about 2 hours to get them off and cut them and about 1 1/2 to pu them back on. They look great I just need to get an alignment. The tires tuck just a bit into the fender. Its looks great.
When I dropped my car with spindles, it slammed the tire into the wheelhouse over any dip in the road because of the stock springs so I replaced them with the stock spindles and Eibach progressive rate drop springs that were the same amount of drop as the spindles and the tires have never touched the top of the wheelhouse since. I also have the advantage of the same rate spring out back which doesn't apply to everybody and could all be overcome with custom ordered springs of different drops with similar rates but I'm very happy with my off the shelf stuff.
Brian Hobaugh SCCA National Tour June 2014
First Hemi 'Cuda Convertible Ever Built
Short clips: Goodguys Pleasanton autocross and pit videos
Drop spindles vs. lowering springs
Linear Mode
