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Old 04-02-2015, 01:31 AM
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Default Another American auto wire ls swap question.

Guys, please bear with my ignorance. I am getting close to starting wiring the nova and I am getting a little nervous. This is my first ground up build and pretty much my first wiring job besides stereos and other basic items. I am very comfortable with running wires cleanly, making good connections and soldering. But not familiar wiring a complete car. I've done tons of research and have purchased an American auto wire update kit, and a psi harness. I will be running 2002 ls1/t56, vintage air, dual electric fans, electric fuel pump from tanks inc, and Dakota digital dash. I am concerned with blending the harnesses. To start, What in the AAW engine harness will be required for the ls swap and what can be removed? I know there will be more questions about relay and such at a later date. Thank you for your time.

Here's a screen shot of the diagram for reference.

[IMG][/IMG]

Last edited by kevin_l; 04-02-2015 at 02:04 AM.
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Old 04-02-2015, 02:08 AM
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Hi Kevin,

Its real simple if you keep everything orderly, pre plan, make and keep good notes.

Drawing a layout will help you with this. I like to go by systems. Each has a separate harness. It makes it easy when you have to troubleshoot it later.

Engine (PSI)
-Fuel delivery system (fuel pump relay, fuel pump controller if applicable)
-AC/Heating (Vintage air)
-Lighting (front and rear)
-Electric windows
-Power locks
-Alarm system


On the engine side of the AAW harness you can remove the:
-alternator/regulator wires 1 18g brown wire
-ignition coil wires 14g pink
-blower circuit wire (remove when using vintage air) 10g orange reroute inside to feed Vintage air blower 10g red.
-tachometer wire 16g white wire (redundant from PSI harness)
-oil wire 18g blue wire OR leave in and use for Vintage air comp wire via safety switch (VHX and PSI use own)
-coolant temp 18g green wire OR leave in and use for Vintage air heater control wire (VHX and PSI use own)

With the PSI harness you can tie into the back of the fuse box using the circuits you just deleted. Keep in mind what you will need while deleting circuits. LS1/T56 DBW 1017 instructions here: http://psiconversion.com/tech_articl...structions.pdf

-Constant battery 12V
-Ignition feed 12V key on
-Tach feed
-cooling fan 1
-cooling fan 2
-brake signal.... note: I had to run a dual circuit switch due to the alarm system we used. The PCM had a 3 volt feed back and it played havoc with the alarm/push button start system.


The nice thing about the AAW harness is it has an additional connector with all the main feeds to run accessories. I have found that I didn't need it but it was nice to have.

Before you cut into anything. READ the instructions, plan it out and lay the harnesses out to familiar yourself with the two. I go as far as labeling each wire and what what it will tie into on both ends.
Make sure you make a note of these in the instructions. And don't get frustrated if you find yourself doing something over and over. It usually takes me 3-4 mock ups just to get it right.
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Last edited by Vince@Meanstreets; 04-02-2015 at 02:39 PM.
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Old 04-02-2015, 02:21 AM
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Forgot the vintage air

1 Red 10g to blower- use heavy orange that you deleted going out. Just come right off of the fuse panel. Back of FAN fuse port. Replace the 30 amp fuse with a 30 amp circuit breaker.
1 Red 18g ignition- relay feed. use the pink with that went to the ignition coil or pink ignition feed circuit.
1 Purple 18g wire - ignition switched 12v AAW has an AC fuse and wire, right under the fan fuse.
1 White 10g from blower to chassis ground
1 white 18g to chassis ground
1 blue 18g wire- to pressure switch to compressor clutch (feed through unused hole in the bulk head.
1 green 18g wire- to heater control valve (feed through unused hole in bulk head)


I like to run circuit breakers on the big circuits. Power windows and fans.

[IMG][/IMG]
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Last edited by Vince@Meanstreets; 04-02-2015 at 02:51 PM.
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Old 04-02-2015, 02:34 AM
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Wow Vince, Thank you for the detailed explanation. I do not have the vintage air yet, and have not looked into it's wiring diagram. So you have me pretty lost. However I did order my psi harness with a/c recognition, might have been wasted money. I've been laying everything out on the floor trying to understand.

"On the engine side of the AAW harness you can remove the:
alternator/regulator wires"


Are you saying I can remove the entire red wire going to the starter solenoid, and to the alternator? What will power the AAW fuse block? And the starter is controlled by the ignition and pcm correct?

Then what about the purple wire to the starter solenoid?
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Old 04-02-2015, 03:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevin_l View Post
Wow Vince, Thank you for the detailed explanation. I do not have the vintage air yet, and have not looked into it's wiring diagram. So you have me pretty lost. However I did order my psi harness with a/c recognition, might have been wasted money. I've been laying everything out on the floor trying to understand.

"On the engine side of the AAW harness you can remove the:
alternator/regulator wires"


Are you saying I can remove the entire red wire going to the starter solenoid, and to the alternator? What will power the AAW fuse block? And the starter is controlled by the ignition and pcm correct?

Then what about the purple wire to the starter solenoid?
no problem. I have a system that seems to work.

No, not a waste. The AC on will bump the idle?

There is a wire that goes to the charge system for the light. Use everything else as prescribed. Yes, you use the purple wire. The starter and alternator Bat + wires up the same.

You want to leave the Red 10g wire to the battery. Fixed my list here.

On the engine side of the AAW harness you can remove the:
alternator/regulator wires 1 18g brown wire
ignition coil wires 14g pink
blower circuit wire (vintage air) 10g orange ** see note
tachometer wire 16g white wire
oil wire 18g blue wire
coolant temp 18g green wire



vintage air diagram

http://www.vintageair.com/Instructions2013/901156.pdf

page 19 shows wire colors and hook ups.

blower circuit wire (vintage air) 10g orange On this Orange 10g, I like to delete the engine side, pull it out of the firewall side of the bulk head, put a single GM (spare connectors and terminals from the AAW kit) and run it to the 10g Red to the Vintage air blower motor. I replace the 30amp fuse with a 30 amp ATO thermal relay. Remove the vintage air breaker from the system.
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Last edited by Vince@Meanstreets; 04-16-2015 at 09:41 PM.
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Old 04-02-2015, 03:25 AM
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I would recommend doing the PSI engine harness first. Lay it out. Plug everything in, figure out routing, controller mounting, grounds, fuse relay panel mounting and go from there. It maybe much more clear to you what wires you need and where they are going to come from.

Another tip, whe you are routing wiring, use masking tape to hold the wires together till you do the final loom. 5" strip with one end taped to itself (sticky to sticky) so you can open it up to add wire and don't cut anything till you are certain its right.
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SPEEDTECH PERFORMANCE Bay Area stocking dealer

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Old 04-02-2015, 12:08 PM
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Vince, this is a great write up.
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70 velle' on custom chassis w/custom RideTech coilovers, RED sleeved 434” with Mamo 265’s, F-body Magnum, 12 bolt 3:73, wilwood 6/4's, bla, bla, bla...build. thread https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=39631
New 434” engine build here https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ved-block.html

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They're 17's, but I keep em clean!
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Old 04-02-2015, 01:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Che70velle View Post
Vince, this is a great write up.
Yes! I never imagined such a great answer and willingness to help. Couldn't have asked for more, Vince you are a true asset to keep this site and hobby friendly and helpful. Thanks again for your write up. It will certainly get me headed in the right direction and I will try and take photos to go with your description as to help the next guy too.
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Old 04-02-2015, 01:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevin_l View Post
Yes! I never imagined such a great answer and willingness to help. Couldn't have asked for more, Vince you are a true asset to keep this site and hobby friendly and helpful. Thanks again for your write up. It will certainly get me headed in the right direction and I will try and take photos to go with your description as to help the next guy too.
thanks guys, Not a problem. I know how frustrating and intimidating it can be so I like to help where I can.


Checks in the mail right?


Oh, and on the AAW harness. The purple start wire has to go through a neutral safety switch or jumper-ed. Car will not crank otherwise.
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MEANSTREETS PERFORMANCE

Dealer for
ACCUAIR rideheight control systems
ENTROPY RADIATORS XXX radiators for your pro-touring vehicle
FORGELINE MOTORSPORTS Highline custom 3 piece wheels
WEGNER AUTOMOTIVE Custom engines and LSX drive systems
SPEEDTECH PERFORMANCE Bay Area stocking dealer

NEVER FORGET -11

Last edited by Vince@Meanstreets; 04-02-2015 at 01:57 PM.
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Old 04-02-2015, 02:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vince@MSperfab View Post
thanks guys, Not a problem. I know how frustrating and intimidating it can be so I like to help where I can.


Checks in the mail right?


Oh, and on the AAW harness. The purple start wire has to go through a neutral safety switch or jumper-ed. Car will not crank otherwise.

Sure check is in the mail, but it's for too much so when you get it wire me the difference, ok??

I got a clutch switch, should that work to run the purple wire through so the motor will only crank with the clutch pedal pushed in?

Last edited by kevin_l; 04-02-2015 at 02:12 PM.
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