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  #141  
Old 06-25-2011, 05:36 AM
1970camaroRS 1970camaroRS is offline
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Did an autopsy of the crappy Mallory pump (3rd one I've had go bad on me). The official result: Sat too long with moisture in the pump. Electric motor wasn't sealed well enough. Pump siezed, motor fried, primary power wire melted.

Here's the pump in question. Dead on the examining table.


First I will remove the pump cover. Warning, this will void the warrenty...


Evidence of galling and heat build-up.


Ah-ha, rusty and frozen.


Now, I will take the top cover off and look at the motor.


Rusty, grungy, a little bit on the toasty/fried side of things.


This little guy has melted and burned almost all the way through.


Motor windings are also rusty and grungy.


A collection of some substance in the base of the electric motor. It and the pump and siezed so badly that I couldn't seperate them with a hammer.


So, first two dead pumps were because they suck. This one is mostly my fault, but really...it should have survived a few years without use. Oh well, the Aeromotive pump is light years better.
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  #142  
Old 06-25-2011, 05:37 AM
1970camaroRS 1970camaroRS is offline
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Now, for what everyone has been waiting for. A cremation of this abomination.

This was fun to do by the way...





























Stupid fuel pump...
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  #143  
Old 06-25-2011, 06:16 AM
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65_LS1_T56 65_LS1_T56 is offline
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Default Fire, Fire!

You should consider professional photography! Those are awesome pics

Stupid fuel pump....
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  #144  
Old 06-25-2011, 09:06 AM
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Leadfoot1 Leadfoot1 is offline
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About your leaks. I noticed you seem to be using a mix of standard hardware store copper fittings and AN parts with the log (where you seem to be having have all your problems). I'm not sure, but arent the copper parts a 45 degree taper vs the AN stuff being 37? Would that not be a possibility that incompatibility would lead to leaks?

Just a tought, and i'm with '65 on the pics, Weeeery nice, even showed 'em to the wife to be!

Lead.

Just found this ; (Last phrase at bottom if you wanna save 4 minutes lol!!)

The AN thread is a particular type of fitting used to connect flexible hoses and rigid metal tubing that carry fluid. It is a US military-derived specification that dates back to World War Two and stems from a joint standard agreed upon by the Army and Navy, hence AN. When the Air Force became its own service in 1947 the AN designation came to reprisent Air Force and Navy. Some aftermarket automotive fitting manufacturers sometimes still mistakenly referred to it as "Army-Navy".

AN sizes range from -2 (dash two) to -32 in irregular steps, with each step equating to the OD (outside diameter) of the tubing in 1/16" increments. Therefore, a -8 AN size would be equal to 1/2" OD tube (8 x 1/16 = 1/2). However, this system does not specify the ID (inside diameter) of the tubing because the tube wall can vary in thickness. Each AN size also uses its own standard thread size.

AN fittings are a flare fitting, using 37° flared tubing to form a metal-metal seal. They are similar to other 37° flared fittings, such as JIC, which is their industrial variant. The two are interchangeable in theory, though this is typically not recommended due to the exacting specifications and demands of the aerospace industry. The differences between them relate to thread class and shape (how tight a fit the threads are), and the metals used.

Note that 37° AN and 45° SAE fittings and tooling are not interchangeable due to the different flaring angles. Mixing them can cause leakage at the flare.
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New for summer '13. My latest find!!

48k miles, 100% original, 1969 Camaro coupe. Untouched, never apart and squeaky clean!!! 327/th350, A/C car. Gold on black w/vinyl top. Only add ons; Fast ratio box and SS396 wheels.

FINALLY!!! A car without rust repairs ever!!! None before, none coming!!! Cant come to modifying it tough....

...So, '67 Camaro project with my laying around stuff out of my black 'vert. 468 BB and YSI blower, braked th400, 12 bolt/spool, 35 splines etc. Complete Calvert suspension front and rear. 30x13.5 ET Streets, caged, lightened, slammed and running low 9's "Street car"
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  #145  
Old 06-25-2011, 10:36 AM
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mexMan mexMan is offline
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Who likes my new wallpaper?
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  #146  
Old 06-25-2011, 02:04 PM
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70rs 70rs is offline
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Nathan,
Nice work on the pump!
But those pictures......HOLY SH!* MAN! REALLY NICE SHOTS!!!
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  #147  
Old 06-25-2011, 03:58 PM
1970camaroRS 1970camaroRS is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leadfoot1 View Post
About your leaks. I noticed you seem to be using a mix of standard hardware store copper fittings and AN parts with the log (where you seem to be having have all your problems). I'm not sure, but arent the copper parts a 45 degree taper vs the AN stuff being 37? Would that not be a possibility that incompatibility would lead to leaks?

Just a tought, and i'm with '65 on the pics, Weeeery nice, even showed 'em to the wife to be!

Lead.

Just found this ; (Last phrase at bottom if you wanna save 4 minutes lol!!)

The AN thread is a particular type of fitting used to connect flexible hoses and rigid metal tubing that carry fluid. It is a US military-derived specification that dates back to World War Two and stems from a joint standard agreed upon by the Army and Navy, hence AN. When the Air Force became its own service in 1947 the AN designation came to reprisent Air Force and Navy. Some aftermarket automotive fitting manufacturers sometimes still mistakenly referred to it as "Army-Navy".

AN sizes range from -2 (dash two) to -32 in irregular steps, with each step equating to the OD (outside diameter) of the tubing in 1/16" increments. Therefore, a -8 AN size would be equal to 1/2" OD tube (8 x 1/16 = 1/2). However, this system does not specify the ID (inside diameter) of the tubing because the tube wall can vary in thickness. Each AN size also uses its own standard thread size.

AN fittings are a flare fitting, using 37° flared tubing to form a metal-metal seal. They are similar to other 37° flared fittings, such as JIC, which is their industrial variant. The two are interchangeable in theory, though this is typically not recommended due to the exacting specifications and demands of the aerospace industry. The differences between them relate to thread class and shape (how tight a fit the threads are), and the metals used.

Note that 37° AN and 45° SAE fittings and tooling are not interchangeable due to the different flaring angles. Mixing them can cause leakage at the flare.
That log is built by All-Star Performance, a budget circle track parts manufacturer. I suspect it comes from China and was wondering where the corners night have been cut. The brass fittings are one...but I suspect NONE of the NPT fittings have thread sealer on them. The fuel pump fittings still had some, but I only got lucky on one of the fittings. I will have to re-do those as well as completely take that fuel log apart and re-seal it.
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1970 Camaro RS. FOR SALE
2000 SS Camaro, 6-spd, SOLD
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  #148  
Old 06-25-2011, 04:02 PM
1970camaroRS 1970camaroRS is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 65_LS1_T56 View Post
You should consider professional photography! Those are awesome pics

Stupid fuel pump....
As a matter of fact....that is what I do on the side. Here's a GTO I shot earlier this year:

http://s1046.photobucket.com/albums/...y/Jaime%20GTO/

I also do portraits, but mostly trying to get work from airplane magazines.
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1970 Camaro RS. FOR SALE
2000 SS Camaro, 6-spd, SOLD
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  #149  
Old 06-25-2011, 04:08 PM
1970camaroRS 1970camaroRS is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 70rs View Post
Nathan,
Nice work on the pump!
But those pictures......HOLY SH!* MAN! REALLY NICE SHOTS!!!
Want to know the secret? Rubber cement. It burns really good and long. Then fuel it with lighters fluid for additional flamage!
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1970 Camaro RS. FOR SALE
2000 SS Camaro, 6-spd, SOLD
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  #150  
Old 06-25-2011, 04:53 PM
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Vegas69 Vegas69 is offline
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks like you are using a 90gph, 5 micron filter, on a pump that flows 140gph and needs a minimum of a 40 micron pre-filter. It also looks like it's in a spot that gets wet on a regular basis.
http://www.jegs.com/p/Fram-Autolite/...45053/10002/-1
If this is indeed the filter you are using, your new pump will suffer the same fate.
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